I hope you succeed on it.
About the Power Button, I thought the Battery was easy removal. That is not worth to open the case just for to disconnect it.
Option 2 - Power OFF , press and Hold Power Button for 20s is the one , if it fails again, to go.
I concur with Adalwar's suggest to buy a cheap USB Wifi device to see if the problem is the device or the drivers. According to the detailed specs, your device either contains:
For the purposes of simple testing, you'll save money by going 802.11g/b/n. Newegg has 42 available for $10 and under. Or you may have a friend who has one already they can loan you just for testing with. Try it out, and see what happens. If the access issues go away, you've isolated the device (and its drivers) as the most likely cause.7260 b/g/n+BT: 11b/g/n, Intel Wireless-N 7260, 2x2, Wi-Fi + BT combo adapter
7260 ac+BT: 11ac, Intel Wireless-AC 7260, 2x2, Wi-Fi + BT combo adapter
HTH,
--Ed--
I just confirm that Driver 17.15.0.5 works much better that 18.3.3.2. I tried the 18.3 various times and result always the same : Speed begins at 22MB/s and after 1 Minute or so it drops down to 12MB/s. With 17.15 it stays more or less stable at 22MB/s.
On my other Laptop, Intel ATOM, installing 447 also installed in background a bunch of System Driver for Motherboard and that was not good, speed was droping to 6MB/s! Well, Updates for my understanding is intended to make system better and more stable.
Anyway I solved the Problem installing the Original OEM Platform / ChipSet Drivers.
If you still have issues , you may also want to try to re-install your Motherboard Chipset Drivers, but the Original from OEM Manufacture that were coming with your Laptop.
I think that was just in the old days and we are going to have to get used to this new reality!!Updates for my understanding is intended to make system better and more stable.
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My last test was to go back to my original (problem) state (from the OP) and see whether restarting twice would bring the adapter back after a fail. The result is that whereas in the original state (a week ago), the adapter failed every ~6 hours and needed a full system recovery to get it back, NOW (in exactly the same state, via restore point) it only fails every 12-14 hours and only needs a (single) restart to bring it back. Apart from having done the "hold down the power button" thing, the improvement is unexplained, but welcome.
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After 13 hours sitting on a bus to the next "town" I have managed to find a USB Wifi Adapter and am soak-testing it now.
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While I'm waiting, can I ask?....
For the MS recovery software - are you referring to:
1) the (Legacy) Windows 7 system included in Windows 10, [Control Panel>Sytem and Security>Backup and Restore (Windows 7)>Create a System Image]; or
2) the new, Windows 10 "File History" thing? [Control Panel>Sytem and SecurityFile History>Select Drive...]
I'm actually quite fond of my proprietary "One Key Recovery" (OKR). As well as being able to restore to factory conditions, it lets me make my own Restore Points at any time. I make a new restore point at least once a month (and, of course, restore back to it, to verify that it works). It has saved my life many times. It also lets you make a bootable USB restore drive. And the "push button" factory reset works fine. It _would_ delete all my user data from C: if I had it stored there, but long ago I set up a separate partition for my files (like this), so it doesn't touch my files. I am happy to back those up manually via synchronisation software.
I did look at the Windows alternatives a while back and decided I didn't need them (though I forget why). Having a quick look now - the Windows 7 one wants available disc space the same size as the used space on C: (58GB) (whereas the OKR compresses the same image down to <30GB). The "File History" one seems to want a dedicated drive solely for its own purposes. Is that right?
thanks
Last edited by BobSter2; 16 Nov 2016 at 07:33.
Hi,
Oh, Yes , I have not seen before that option "Back up and Restore (Windows 7)" in Control Panel, must be new in W10-AU. I was always going thru File History>"System Image Backup" (at bottom of left Pane) but they are both going to the same Menu: "Create a system image" is what you have to choose. Remember you have to have Free Space no External Drive at least as much as your used Space in Drive C.
For the USB Boot (Rescue Drive/Repair Disc) you need a 8GB USB Stick.
The "File Hstory" itself deals with saving/restore your USER data ( I think only the MODIFIED data; I also do not use this option), not the System OS, this is going to be done with "Backup and Restore".
If you have experience and find that OKR is doing the job, then probably the System Image is not necessary.
48 hours' testing with the cheapo USB adapter yields no problems, so I guess the problem is with (a) the (internal) card; (b) the drivers; or (c) interoperability between the OS and the drivers.
I think for now, I will "suffer" with it as-is (the symptoms are less severe than when it first presented - less frequent and now needing only a restart to bring the Network card back up). I can try a more robust fix when I get back to my own country where I have a mailing address and some screwdrivers!
thanks for all your help :)
Hi,
I am glad to hear that you can now work without being disturbed by Devices not working properly.
I doubt very much it has to do with the Internal Card Hardware , it is likely to be Software related.
I myself have problems with Drivers for a similar Card, while transferring a 8GB file, I am seeing time to time a great speed drop and then back to normal speed, so it is a kind of "reset" just it continues.
It is Windows and Drivers that are not playing well. Nothing to do about it, the only solution is to roll back to a OS Version where the Card is working fine.
Cheers.
Any updates on finding a solution to this problem? My computer is having what sounds exactly the same issues, but i have an HP m7-k211dx laptop and intel AC 7260 wifi card. Only difference is the wifi drops at random times, sometimes instantly (just after booting computer) up to and in excess of 5 hours. But most of the time I will be browsing the web using google chrome and my computer will become jittery and chrome will eventually stop responding and then soon after my wifi says limited connectivity and cant see any other networks. Rebooting the computer only brings the card back sometimes and other times when the computer reboots I have to re-enable it in network connections in control panel even though I didn't disable it. I tried upgrading and downgrading drives, I also just installed a fresh copy of windows 10 (full reset of computer) and I still have the problem
I offer this thread. I have the 7260 and this works for the 7265, solved on another thread.
Shotty Internet on Windows 10
Actually worked with GlossedOver on the above thread. You need to note current driver version so you know the old one took when you install. The best success is with the 17.0.0.34 Dated February 18/2014.
In the thread above I offered up some links to drivers near this number. If required I can also provide a link to my copy to those who need it as I can't upload an exe on to this forum.
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