Win 10 RS-4 not compatible with Intel DX58SO motherboard

After the freeze, do you reboot to find setup rolling back, and then a normal restart, or can you get into your working 16299 straight away?

Interesting. After all that you still have issues. So it is not the driver version causing you problems, it is something in the methodology that the newer build use to install drivers in this SafeOS step that is breaking on your machine.

Hmmm. Going forward on my last thought:

I wonder if you could somehow connect your HD to the eSATA port and try to install it there? Power for the drive is going to be the main thing you need to work out, but other than that, it (theoretically) should work.

Reason I suggest it is that I had forgotten one crucial difference between our systems - my boot drive is connected to the SATA III port that is run by the Marvell controller on board, not any of the SATA II ports controlled by the Intel ICH10R chipset. IIRC, your motherboard has both a Marvell controller (which is tied to the eSATA only) as well as the ICH10R (which controls all of the internal SATA II ports on your motherboard).

I mean, as you said, it's worth a short to see if it works. Just be sure to make a full / complete backup in Macrium, store it on another drive and (optionally) disconnect every drive except whichever one you try on the eSATA port - then you'll know really quickly if Windows installer even sees that drive as a possible boot drive or not....

Of course, the downside of this is that even if this works, if you move the drive back onto the ICH10R-controlled ports, it may not boot. Which means you might be stuck keeping it on the eSATA port from now on....

But, the upside is that if it works, you know what the culprit is - the ICH10R.

bordi said:

Once it freezes I have to switch the machine off and on again

Then it just boots normally and a few minutes later I get the error

0xC1900101 - 0x20017 The installation failed in the SAFE_OS phase with an error during BOOT operation


And I noticed there are no lights on the keyboard or mouse when it’s frozen

I see the no lights thing on one of my desktops, when I shut down windows to sleep from desktop - even though the PSU should supply power to USB, when the system is off, for wake states to wake on LAN, mouse, KB etc., it made me think the MB was dead for several months (and probably the folks who threw it away and I rescued it after sitting in the open near their dustbins for 3 months!) If I let it put itself to sleep, there is no problem with restarting, otherwise, the PSU needs to be kicked hard to start.

I asked because I wanted to know if the failed installation on the disk still was intact, or if it was removed before restarting the system?

I think that the shutdown of the USB power (mouse & KB lights) from the PSU during the freeze is a bug in the power states management of the Windows/Intel chipset drivers, or a PSU fault.

I have to get my PSU out to check it. Have you an alternative PSU to try?

Fafhrd said:

I see the no lights thing on one of my desktops, when I shut down windows to sleep from desktop - even though the PSU should supply power to USB, when the system is off, for wake states to wake on LAN, mouse, KB etc., it made me think the MB was dead for several months (and probably the folks who threw it away and I rescued it after sitting in the open near their dustbins for 3 months!) If I let it put itself to sleep, there is no problem with restarting, otherwise, the PSU needs to be kicked hard to start.

I asked because I wanted to know if the failed installation on the disk still was intact, or if it was removed before restarting the system?

I think that the shutdown of the USB power (mouse & KB lights) from the PSU during the freeze is a bug in the power states management of the Windows/Intel chipset drivers, or a PSU fault.

I have to get my PSU out to check it. Have you an alternative PSU to try?

Have you looked at the settings for USB suspend in the power plan you are using?

Windows 10 always made my KB lights flicker, particularly when off, until I changed those settings to disable any sort of USB suspension (and since I moved to the Performance power plan, this is acceptable).

So far, so good....