One bit of advice always order the reformatting disks when you buy a new PC. I know there is a recovery on the PC, but if doesn't work it doesn't help much. Also an HP tech told me the disk are much more thorough than the recover on the PC. I believe that because I did a recover on my PC recently when I had a problem it and it only took half the time the disks did.
I can't find the forum that discussed the need to make a MS account to set up a new pc. During the prepping for W 10, upgrading it then going back to 8.1 I reformatted and did not activate my wifi when I was setting up. When the box came up for my name and email, I just put my initials in the name box and clicked next or whatever, it accepted it.
One bit of advice always order the reformatting disks when you buy a new PC. I know there is a recovery on the PC, but if doesn't work it doesn't help much. Also an HP tech told me the disk are much more thorough than the recover on the PC. I believe that because I did a recover on my PC recently when I had a problem it and it only took half the time the disks did.
HDD read speeds are better than optical disc (and most USB) read speeds, so reinstalling should be much faster.
When I ran W98 I used to have the installer on a separate HDD partition.
Since W98 had to reinstalled regularly, it was more convenient (and faster) than using the installer disc.
When I ran W98 I used to have the installer on a separate HDD partition.
Since W98 had to reinstalled regularly, it was more convenient (and faster) than using the installer disc.
Another 'trick' I did back then was to have all the data copied from the CD into a Folder then find the Registry entry that mentioned the drive Windows was installed from and change the path to that saved Folder then if installing programs asked for additional support files it would look in that Folder. The process could be used for other programs.
Computer Type: PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number: Customs, Dell, HP, ASUS OS: Win10 Version 22H2 Pro and Home, Win11 Pro and Home CPU: AMD and Intel Screen Resolution: 1440x900 Browser: Firefox, Edge, Chromium, Vivaldi, SeaMonkey Other Info: 4 computers on KVM switch
Computer Type: Laptop System Manufacturer/Model Number: Dell, HP, Toshiba, Lenovo OS: Win11 Pro, Vista, 7, 10 Home and Pro, Linux Mint, MS-DOS 6.20 w/Win3.1 CPU: AMD and Intel Monitor(s) Displays: 12", 13", 14", 15", 17" Browser: Firefox, Edge, Chromium [not Chrome], Vivaldi, SeaMonkey
You don't have that luxury anymore unfortunately including custom installing the old Legacy version to a Windows folder with a slight name change! I actually had 95 in a dual boot with 98SE when first looking at the newer version installed in a "Window98" folder with both versions running which you wouldn't be able to see done later!
The old Legacy versions weren't too much more then layered applications in those days. Since that time however the Windows OS has been integrated with the hardware preventing any type of coexistence except for VMs between versions even different editions of the same. Not sure if that would have been possible with ME or not still having been a Fat32 OS there having skipped over that and 2000 which wouldn't being NTFS. Still have to get around to DOSBox to see if that will work on 10 as it did on the 64bit 7. :)
As for seeing 7 and newer installed some will simply mount an ISO or even run the setup.exe from the "$Windows~WS\Sources\Windows 10 Pro(renamed from "Windows")\setup.exe" folder location on separate hard drive while I still need to be booted live from another source like the 10 media and get it running from the command prompt option there still seeing a drive to drive type install for a fresh clean install not upgrade to take place.
Some report the mounted ISO install goes on much faster 12 minutes for 7 compared to the average 20min. for the previous version there. As far as actual times I find the installer is what takes the most time when going to detect all devices with the setup files already unpacked onto the destination drive where the installation is taking place only accessing the source being the flash drive or optical after having booted live or performing an upgrade.
The mounted ISO is on a virtual optical while the WS or BT folder containing the installation files would be expected to save a little time when on a separate partition if the OS drive was already split up. You would still want to unpack the usb flash drive or dvd burned into that folder however to insure everything was intact from a known to be good burn or write however if not from an ISO directly.
Here since there is method for seeing a working 4 in 1 usb stick created for both 32/64 flavors having both edition wrapped up together I unpacked the working deal there into a folders on each of the storage drives where I keep other things like the gatherostate.exe files used to get the Genuine Ticket to avoid the need for the initial upgrade install. Clean Install Windows 10 Directly without having to Upgrade First - Windows 10 Forums
Computer Type: PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number: Custom Builds OS: W10 Pro x64/W7 Ultimate x64 dual boot main - W11 Triple Boot Pending CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 975 Deneb 3.6ghz Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-790-UD4/Gigabyte GA-880GM-D2H Memory: Kingston Hyper X DDR3 1600 1.5v 16gb - Hyper X "Fury" 8gb second remote pc Graphics Card: MSI HD Radeon 5750 1gb - MSI 6450 1gb Remote pc Sound Card: Creative Labs X-Fi Xtreme Audio PCI Express Monitor(s) Displays: ASUS VW199T-P 19" HP 2082a Main dual display -HP 2082a 20" remote pc Screen Resolution: Asus 1440x900 - HP 1600x900 Keyboard: AZIO L70 Backlit Letters Gaming model Mouse: MSI DS - 11 button programmable PSU: Corsair 750TX 750w Case: Antec 900-2 SSD compatible Cooling: Zalman CNPS9900A Hard Drives: WD Black Edition 1tb Sata II 3.0 = 2 OS drives
Pending WD Heavy Duty PC/Mac/NAS/CCTVDVR = 2 to replace WD 1tb Black Edition Sata 3.0 = 2
WD 1tb Green Power HD In external enclosure temp internal install until new drives go in. Will be used in usb e Internet Speed: 30mbs upgraded from previous dsl Browser: WaterFox/Cyberfox x64 variations of FireFox, FF x64 Antivirus: VIPRE 2016 Internet Secuurity Life Time Subscription Other Info: Accomdata fan cooled usb 2.0 PIDE/Sata II, III external enclosure.
Sambient usb/eSata PATA/Sata II, III external enclosure
Computer Type: PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number: CUSTOM ASSEMBLY OS: Presently Pending W7 Pro x64/Open Source/ W11 Pro possible? CPU: AMD Phenom II 3.2ghz Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-880GM-D2H Memory: Kingston Hyper X Fury 8gb Graphics Card: AMD Radeon DVI Sound Card: Realtek onooard Creative or Other separate PENDING Monitor(s) Displays: VIZIO 32" LCD TV Separate LCD Pending Screen Resolution: Pending Keyboard: Pending Mouse: Pending PSU: Corsair 600W - THERMALTAKE 600W in spare parts case Case: NXRT Micro ATX Cooling: Twin 120mm Top Fans - 240mm fan on Side Cover Hard Drives: Presently two WD Black and Black Caviar edition 500GB pending Internet Speed: Cable internet 5G Pending upgrade of main build Browser: Pending: Edge, FireFox Nightly, Chrome requirement, WaterFox and others Antivirus: VIPRE Internet Security suite Other Info: Restart TeamViewer remote PC project with main build on VPN
Evaluate Insider Builds once rebuild to upgrade complete
Examine Open Source OSs
I'll admit I haven't read all 16 pages of this thread, but I can say that I found the W10 files were downloaded on a computer without a reservation, without the GWX icon in the taskbar, and although the W10 upgrade is listed under "optional" in Windows Update, I found it was AUTO-CHECKED to install, and I had to stop Windows Updates several times to get it to stop upgrading a pc I was working on. Then, when I looked under the hood, I found it had already tried to upgrade and had failed.
Computer Type: PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number: Custom Build OS: W10Prox64 CPU: Core i7-6700 Motherboard: ASUS Maximus VIII Hero Memory: 2x8GB DDR4-2400 Graphics Card: EVGA GeForce GTX-960 Sound Card: on-board Monitor(s) Displays: ASUS VE247 Screen Resolution: 1920x1080 Keyboard: Logitech K800 Wrls, Illuminated Mouse: Anker Ergo PSU: EVGA NEX750G Case: Corsair Obsidian 750D Cooling: Corsair Vortex Plus Hard Drives: Samsung SSD 850EVO 250GB + 2x2TB Spinners Internet Speed: 100Mbps Other Info: Many thanks to essenbe for his help putting this monster together!
I'll admit I haven't read all 16 pages of this thread, but I can say that I found the W10 files were downloaded on a computer without a reservation, without the GWX icon in the taskbar, and although the W10 upgrade is listed under "optional" in Windows Update, I found it was AUTO-CHECKED to install, and I had to stop Windows Updates several times to get it to stop upgrading a pc I was working on. Then, when I looked under the hood, I found it had already tried to upgrade and had failed.
That is some nerve, if you ask me.
It's outrageous , I keep needing to remove Win 10 updates as well after going back to 7 for good yesterday . Win 10 is just awful , hate it .
The windows update that installs the "get windows 10 app" is listed as important lol.
HDD read speeds are better than optical disc (and most USB) read speeds, so reinstalling should be much faster.
When I ran W98 I used to have the installer on a separate HDD partition.
Since W98 had to reinstalled regularly, it was more convenient (and faster) than using the installer disc.
Computer Type: PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number: imac 27" OS: OS X, Win 10 CPU: i7 Motherboard: Apple Memory: 32 gigs Graphics Card: Bulit in Sound Card: Bulit in Monitor(s) Displays: 1 iMac 27", 1 Samung 4K 2650 x 1600 Screen Resolution: 27" 2650 x 1440 Keyboard: Standard U.S. Apple Keyboard Mouse: MS 5000 windows Mouse Case: Apple iMac 27" Cooling: Built in Hard Drives: Kingston 240 gig SSD Internet Speed: 100 MPS (VPN) Browser: Firefox
Computer Type: PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number: imac 27" OS: OS X, Win 10 CPU: i7 Motherboard: Apple Memory: 32 gigs Graphics Card: Bulit in Sound Card: Bulit in Monitor(s) Displays: 1 iMac 27", 1 Samung 4K 2650 x 1600 Screen Resolution: 27" 2650 x 1440 Keyboard: Standard U.S. Apple Keyboard Mouse: MS 5000 windows Mouse Case: Apple iMac 27" Cooling: Built in Hard Drives: Kingston 240 gig SSD Internet Speed: 100 MPS (VPN) Browser: Firefox
I'll admit I haven't read all 16 pages of this thread, but I can say that I found the W10 files were downloaded on a computer without a reservation, without the GWX icon in the taskbar, and although the W10 upgrade is listed under "optional" in Windows Update, I found it was AUTO-CHECKED to install, and I had to stop Windows Updates several times to get it to stop upgrading a pc I was working on. Then, when I looked under the hood, I found it had already tried to upgrade and had failed.
That is some nerve, if you ask me.
fredc said:
It's outrageous , I keep needing to remove Win 10 updates as well after going back to 7 for good yesterday . Win 10 is just awful , hate it .
The windows update that installs the "get windows 10 app" is listed as important lol.
Simple solution! If you have each and every update for 10 listed you right click on each one to select the hide option and call it a day! You also can disable any further upgrade issues by creating a new key and DWord32 value in the system reg that will prevent any OS upgrades. The failed upgrade attempt was likely from having one or more additional Non OS drives plugged in where you may want to examine those for any boot files or BT, WS "$Windows~__" temp install folders. If any 10 upgrade failed one or more items will be found on the other drive(s)!
Computer Type: PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number: Custom Builds OS: W10 Pro x64/W7 Ultimate x64 dual boot main - W11 Triple Boot Pending CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 975 Deneb 3.6ghz Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-790-UD4/Gigabyte GA-880GM-D2H Memory: Kingston Hyper X DDR3 1600 1.5v 16gb - Hyper X "Fury" 8gb second remote pc Graphics Card: MSI HD Radeon 5750 1gb - MSI 6450 1gb Remote pc Sound Card: Creative Labs X-Fi Xtreme Audio PCI Express Monitor(s) Displays: ASUS VW199T-P 19" HP 2082a Main dual display -HP 2082a 20" remote pc Screen Resolution: Asus 1440x900 - HP 1600x900 Keyboard: AZIO L70 Backlit Letters Gaming model Mouse: MSI DS - 11 button programmable PSU: Corsair 750TX 750w Case: Antec 900-2 SSD compatible Cooling: Zalman CNPS9900A Hard Drives: WD Black Edition 1tb Sata II 3.0 = 2 OS drives
Pending WD Heavy Duty PC/Mac/NAS/CCTVDVR = 2 to replace WD 1tb Black Edition Sata 3.0 = 2
WD 1tb Green Power HD In external enclosure temp internal install until new drives go in. Will be used in usb e Internet Speed: 30mbs upgraded from previous dsl Browser: WaterFox/Cyberfox x64 variations of FireFox, FF x64 Antivirus: VIPRE 2016 Internet Secuurity Life Time Subscription Other Info: Accomdata fan cooled usb 2.0 PIDE/Sata II, III external enclosure.
Sambient usb/eSata PATA/Sata II, III external enclosure
Computer Type: PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number: CUSTOM ASSEMBLY OS: Presently Pending W7 Pro x64/Open Source/ W11 Pro possible? CPU: AMD Phenom II 3.2ghz Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-880GM-D2H Memory: Kingston Hyper X Fury 8gb Graphics Card: AMD Radeon DVI Sound Card: Realtek onooard Creative or Other separate PENDING Monitor(s) Displays: VIZIO 32" LCD TV Separate LCD Pending Screen Resolution: Pending Keyboard: Pending Mouse: Pending PSU: Corsair 600W - THERMALTAKE 600W in spare parts case Case: NXRT Micro ATX Cooling: Twin 120mm Top Fans - 240mm fan on Side Cover Hard Drives: Presently two WD Black and Black Caviar edition 500GB pending Internet Speed: Cable internet 5G Pending upgrade of main build Browser: Pending: Edge, FireFox Nightly, Chrome requirement, WaterFox and others Antivirus: VIPRE Internet Security suite Other Info: Restart TeamViewer remote PC project with main build on VPN
Evaluate Insider Builds once rebuild to upgrade complete
Examine Open Source OSs
Source: Microsoft begins new EU GDPR parental consent verifications for children's accounts - Microsoft on the Issues
How to Add or Remove a Child Account for Your Microsoft Family in Windows 10