Thank you Brink ... crikey that was quick.
Internet connection woes here at the moment ....rural copper being upgraded (haha).
Not a big deal ........ but just tested PIN/password by switching users ... and was using the correct PIN (multiple attempts ...written down and very familiar ... caps lock checked (machine told me when on/off).
Just a note ... not an 'issue'.
Paul
In my experience you need to use your full password , not your Windows Hello Pin.....
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and these days you don't really need to do the registry changes yourself ............
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Windows 10 is pretty forgiving if you go through Safe Mode......
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If you already installed under RAID, you can change to AHCI with Win 10. ( and visa versa) by visiting Safe Mode, switching the Bios as you go.....
- In Win 10, do a safemode boot by going to run (Win Key+R) => type msconfig.exe and choose => boot => safe boot.
- On the reboot, hit F2 or Delete and go into Bios ( before Safe Mode ) and change to AHCI/RAID as needed.
- Then boot into Safemode and let Win10 load the default MS drivers automatically.
- Open msconfig as as above change back to normal boot, then reboot.
- Win10 will once again load the AHCI/RAID Drivers as needed automatically ( may need a reboot
- Then install the Intel RST Driver or Samsung NVMe driver if needed.
#5 (tenforums.com)
EDIT:
Perhaps a better place for my ramblings is in general ... so will post there and mention this as origin.
Thank you Kbird.
Your comment "you need to use your full password , not your Windows Hello Pin" set me thinking ..
Realised I did not ( and perhaps still dont ) fully understand the differences and consequences between "Password" and "PIN".
Looked at some tutorials .. found detailed explanation as part of ...
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/...-microsoft-acc
Found a couple of descriptions here ...
windows 10 - How do I sign in with a password instead of a pin? - Super User
And I note the comments regarding care when choosing not to use PIN.
BUT .... I had not appreciated the finer points so typing/thinking out-loud to understand ...... and perhaps get a better / more correct response from you wizards.
"Password" in w10 terms refers only to the Microsoft account (if used) and is stored remotely from machine.
"PIN" in w10 terms refers only to the Machine account is only stored on the machine (and can/does/must?) use the built-in TPM chip.
The actual "Password" and/or "PIN" are still just a chosen string of characters.
Then there is a BIOS Password - which only relates to the operating system on the machine - and is also called an Admin Password (as per this Dell laptop).
Then there is a "Computer Account" password required when installing/registering Windows first time during the blue box sequence.
This "Password" was written down but I have no idea where to use it and never done so ... not my MS Account, not Bios/Admin, nor any other accounts on machine.
So I assume "Kbird" was referring to MS Account password ?
This machine has TPM and I have a MS Account linked to this w10p 1909 installation with digital license. Machine has and uses fingerprint, PIN and a FIDO2 key. It does not have face recognition camera.
The FIDO2 key was added in settings > sign-in options > security key.
So I assume this is actually linked to my MS Account, requires internet access, and is stored (encrypted/decrypted) elsewhere from machine ?
Rather than being only machine specific and 'used' locally within Windows on this machine.
The possible need for internet access is important in my current circumstances as the service is erratic and poor ... which may be the case for other users trying to be secure but not realising the consequences of different login methods.
The words "Password", "Account" used without qualifiers can trip up those who are not concentrating !
Sorry for the rambling layout .... the comment from "Kbird" was a wake-up-call.
Last edited by Pavl; 05 May 2021 at 02:15. Reason: Posting to general & link to here
Hello, sorry to revive this old thread but I'm following the solution on here, and unfortunately it did not work for me
Both the registry and safe mode tricks just made Windows go into a loop, never booting up, until that boot error displays on the bottom. I'm thankful that I can still get into the BIOS and change it back to my default, and all is well again. I tried this on Win 8.1 and Win 10.
Not sure if this will never work for me, or if I'm missing something, but here's more background/info on my system:
- My original HDD multiboots to XP (active, system), 7 (logical) and 8.1 (boot) and HDD is connected via IDE
- Bought my first ever SSD, so cloned my HDD to my SSD. I left my HDD untouched (still attached to that thick IDE cable), and plugged in the new SSD to the first SATA port on my old mobo
- Went in BIOS and changed the Boot priority to SSD; success- I am able to boot on all 3 OS and see my HDD
- Upgraded my Win 7 to Win 10, and so now it is booting to XP, 8.1 and 10
- Noticed that 10 is a bit slow and researched that I actually need to switch my SSD to AHCI
- Just an FYI, I can't get rid of XP since it is my primary partition so I really don't use it but it's just there so things won't break
- It seems that my SSD is being recognized as IDE (please see screenshot)
- The options for my SATA controller in BIOS: SATA mode, Raid, AHCI. I've never tried RAID, and every time I switch to AHCI, it goes into the loop I mentioned. It's only when I put it back to SATA mode that my pc works again (attached screenshot).
- Other info: AMD Athlon processor, BIOS Mode: Legacy
So I guess my question is if you see anything worth noting as to why this wouldn't work? Also, if I decide to just start from scratch with my SSD (i.e., not clone from my HDD, and just wipe everything on there - switch to AHCI first, then install Windows, will that work?) Honestly, not looking forward to start from scratch/install fresh since I have no idea where I can get the Windows 10 license since I upgraded from Windows 7..
Link to screenshots: Imgur: The magic of the Internet
Last edited by bostoncommon; 20 Sep 2021 at 00:15. Reason: can't see the attached pics so added link
You said you still have the old HDD connected by IDE cable. You should be able to dual boot the old hard drive and the new SSD (which would be in SATA AHCI mode) by selecting the drive from the BIOS boot menu.
You don't need a product key to clean install Windows 10. Just select the option for I don't have a product key. Then make sure to select the edition of Windows 10 that you upgraded to (IE Home or Pro).
Thanks for the reply, Navy! Yes, I'm still able to boot from any of the 2 (HDD or SSD). I guess reinstalling win 10 would be my last option. Tbh, I was hoping this tutorial would work for me, I just have a lot of programs and it will be a pain downloading all of them again as well 😑. I was planning on eventually wiping out my HDD to use as extra storage once I'm confident I have everything working properly on my SSD. Just don't get why I keep getting INACCESSABLE_BOOT_DEVICE when I follow the instructions on here...
- - - Updated - - -
Okay, I've given up on attempting to change to AHCI on my existing Windows, so I have no choice but to start fresh. I do have questions and I hope someone can clarify and let me know if this will work with my setup. Here's what I'm planning to do:
- Wipe SSD clean; still attached to SATA port 1
-HDD contains my multi-bootable Windows operating systems and an old version of Ubuntu Linux; attached to the old IDE serial cable
- Go into BIOS and change to AHCI for SATA
- Boot to my HDD so I can clone my HDD (using Macrium) to my SSD. Most likely just clone my Windows operating systems - xp (active, system, primary partition), 7 (logical), 8.1 (boot, logical, crash dump, etc.)
- Go into BIOS and change SSD as the boot priority so I can get into Windows 7
- Upgrade Windows 7 to 10
So, I guess my question would be, will this set up work? Will it automatically detect the AHCI drivers or since I cloned it, will it still be the IDE drivers that's on there and I'd have to manually install the AHCI drivers?
Thanks in advance!
Hi,
You can try
Do all these operations with only your boot drive connected to your system.
Run an elevated cmd prompt.
bcdedit /set safeboot minimal
Restart the computer and enter BIOS Setup
Change the SATA Operation mode to AHCI from IDE setup
Save changes and exit Setup and Windows will automatically boot to Safe Mode.
Run an elevated cmd prompt.
bcdedit /deletevalue safeboot
Reboot once more and Windows should automatically start with AHCI drivers enabled.
On my computers I set the BIOS for AHCI before installing Windows.
AHCI vs IDE: What’s the Difference Between AHCI and IDE
Thanks, Malok! It was worth a try, so I boot up windows 10 from my SSD and followed the command to boot up in safe mode (double checked msconfig and it shows as windows 10 safe mode minimal).
Then, I physically removed my HDD from the ide cable. So now all that's left is my SSD which is my boot drive. Restarted and switched to AHCI mode in the BIOS, saved and restarted.
Same deal, the windows 10 logo shows up with the infinite loop circle, which after what seems like forever will display "inaccessible device boot error," then proceeds to restart and the cycle begins.
I'm not sure, but is it because my SSD has all 3 windows systems in there (XP, 8.1 and 10)?
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