Force HDMI to carry 5.1 Dolby or whatever  

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  1. Posts : 7
    Windows 11
       #81

    Just set this up, working fine, but when I load up Uncharted 4, in the settings I shows stereo sound only. Will it still give me surround sound even with this setting locked down?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Nope, it's broken, the game seems to be "smart" and sees only stereo speakers and locks down the soundstage.
    Can't see a way to override it, when playing the game, it's in stereo, nothing coming out of my rear speakers.
      My Computer


  2. Posts : 7
    Windows 11
       #82

    I know it's bad to reply to my own messages, but putting this out there for anyone else who stumbles across this forum.

    I did a fresh install of Win11 trying to troubleshoot my issues. On a fresh install, the Dobly app would refuse to install giving me some error about dependencies missing (PSP I think it said).

    Ended up getting it all working by installing this first from Github, THEN running the Dolby install.

    Releases . AlanFinotty/AAFOptimusDCHAudio-Generic . GitHub
      My Computer


  3. Posts : 9
    Windows 10 Pro x64
       #83

    So I've followed the guide, and was able to get everything installed without issue. However, when I try to apply "Dolby Digital" as my default format under the Advanced tab, I just get "Format not supported by the device".
    I'm running Win10x64. I have both a Sound Blaster Audigy 5/RX, and an RTX3070. I've tried connecting via HDMI through the GPU and via optical directly from the sound card. I'm not using a TV at all, I just want sound only, directly from the PC to the receiver (Sony STR-DH520), to the speakers.
    I can get stereo sound no problem, and I can even get 5.1 through the HDMI (before I installed the APO driver), but it's all really inconsistent. Sometimes I can't control the volume, sometimes, it's quiet, sometimes super loud. Often the sound seems to be highly processed, like the AVR is applying some sort of processing. In ALL cases, the AVR is displaying "LPCM" on the front panel, regardless of mode or input type. If I use optical, which seems to be the most stable, I get 5.1 only when I run the test pattern, and sometimes not even then. If I set the Creative control panel to 5.1 speakers, which is what I've always used, then it muffles the center and rear channels badly for some reason. If I leave it on 2/2.1 speakers, then the test audio sounds good, but I lose the ability to select the "stereo surround", which is a nifty feature that mixes all channels even for stereo input. I use it all the time, and would hate to lose it.
    Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? This is driving me batty! :/
      My Computer


  4. Posts : 6
    Windows 11
       #84

    I use Dolby Home Theater to connect to a Sony 5.1 soundbar through HDMI ARC on a Panasonic TV. I have an Nvidia RTX 4090 and use HDMI 2.1. My soundbar can bitstream Dolby Digital 5.1 and no other surround formats, so I need to encode any surround output as DD 5.1. (If I had an eARC soundbar, I could convert to standard multi-channel LPCM and wouldn't need Dolby Home Theater.)

    After upgrading to Windows 11, I had some trouble getting Dolby Home Theater to work, but here's what ultimately did:

    1. Uninstalled the APO driver
    2. Deactivated Windows Active Protection (without this, the driver patcher won't install)
    3. Reinstalled APO driver with Dolby DS1 and Dolby PCEE4 from this file
    4. Installed Dolby Home Theater V4
    5. Ran FX Configurator
    6. Chose the correct device (which had changed from Panasonic-TV (NVIDIA High Definition Audio) in Windows 10 to Panasonic-TV (High Definition Audio Device) in Windows 11).
    7. Used Product Config Tool to hook Dolby Home Theater v4 to the audio device.
    7. Rebooted. (Dolby Digital appeared as an option for default format and a Dolby tab appeared in the device properties window.)
    8. Selected Dolby Digital as the default format.

    Dolby Home Theater now works perfectly once again with LPCM 5.1, DD+, Dolby TrueHD, and DTS-MA tracks.
      My Computer


  5. Posts : 6
    windows 10
       #85

    Guys, I need help. I was able to get partial 5.1 surround sound using Fat Guy's files and directions but my sub-woofer doesn't work using these techniques. I'm on a Windows box with RTX 3070 video connected via HDMI 2.1 to my LG TV and then I run an optical cable from my LG C2 65" (just purchased this week) into my old DENON AVR-S510BT receiver's optical-in which powers my 5.1 surround system. Ran the 5.1 audio test included in this topic and all speakers work except my subwoofer. Now if I run an HDMI cable from my PC into my AV receiver and then HDMI-out to my TV's HDMI-in, I get all 5 speakers working including the subwoofer and I'm able to test it through Nvidia's HD audio driver in windows. But since my old Denon doesn't support 4K/120Hz (only 60hz) I don't want to use my receiver to select HDMI video inputs anymore. What could be the issue?
      My Computer


  6. Posts : 6
    Windows 11
       #86

    Why not just run one HDMI cable to your TV for video and a second connection out of one of the DisplayPorts to the receiver, and use the receiver connection only for audio as your default device? That will also let you bitstream LPCM and high-res formats. You might not even need different drivers.
      My Computer


  7. Posts : 6
    windows 10
       #87

    BuzzBuzzBuzz said:
    Why not just run one HDMI cable to your TV for video and a second connection out of one of the DisplayPorts to the receiver, and use the receiver connection only for audio as your default device? That will also let you bitstream LPCM and high-res formats. You might not even need different drivers.
    I have three display ports on my RTX 3070 (along with one HDMI 2.1 connected directly to the LG C2). I just want to get my old Windows Sound Panel back with all the Dolby modes showing up again (5.1, 7.1, etc) and not have to do these extensive workarounds, and also be able to test them from within windows instead of using the Fraunhofer app. Presumably I would need a display-port-to-HDMI adapter or cable that gets plugged into an HDMI port on the AVR, correct? Would this do?

    One other thing: I think I notice some audio lag using Fat Guy's workaround. It's small but perhaps noticeable enough to be annoying to some. I wonder if the display port method eliminates that.
      My Computer


  8. Posts : 6
    Windows 11
       #88

    Tartarus89 said:
    Guys, I need help. I was able to get partial 5.1 surround sound using Fat Guy's files and directions but my sub-woofer doesn't work using these techniques. I'm on a Windows box with RTX 3070 video connected via HDMI 2.1 to my LG TV and then I run an optical cable from my LG C2 65" (just purchased this week) into my old DENON AVR-S510BT receiver's optical-in which powers my 5.1 surround system. Ran the 5.1 audio test included in this topic and all speakers work except my subwoofer. Now if I run an HDMI cable from my PC into my AV receiver and then HDMI-out to my TV's HDMI-in, I get all 5 speakers working including the subwoofer and I'm able to test it through Nvidia's HD audio driver in windows. But since my old Denon doesn't support 4K/120Hz (only 60hz) I don't want to use my receiver to select HDMI video inputs anymore. What could be the issue?
    Tartarus89 said:
    I have three display ports on my RTX 3070 (along with one HDMI 2.1 connected directly to the LG C2). I just want to get my old Windows Sound Panel back with all the Dolby modes showing up again (5.1, 7.1, etc) and not have to do these extensive workarounds, and also be able to test them from within windows instead of using the Fraunhofer app. Presumably I would need a display-port-to-HDMI adapter or cable that gets plugged into an HDMI port on the AVR, correct? Would this do?

    One other thing: I think I notice some audio lag using Fat Guy's workaround. It's small but perhaps noticeable enough to be annoying to some. I wonder if the display port method eliminates that.
    That cable should work, but I'd recommend spending a few extra bucks and getting a cable or adapter that can handle 4K60 or 4K120, just in case you ever need it. Also make sure the cable is long enough.

    Have you tested the subwoofer using different sources, including surround sound tracks, on a media player like MPC-HC? I have a bunch of test files including LPCM 5.1 and 7.1, DD 5.1, DD-EX, DD+, DTS-HD MA, and Dolby TrueHD and could share them with you if you need.

    Why do you need all the Dolby settings in your Windows control panel? Adjusting sound settings on your receiver is probably going to give you better results.

    I'm pretty sure the dual-cable setup will be a much better solution, especially if you watch movies. Dolby Digital 5.1 can sound good, but it is rather compressed.
      My Computer


  9. Posts : 6
    windows 10
       #89

    BuzzBuzzBuzz said:
    That cable should work, but I'd recommend spending a few extra bucks and getting a cable or adapter that can handle 4K60 or 4K120, just in case you ever need it. Also make sure the cable is long enough.

    Have you tested the subwoofer using different sources, including surround sound tracks, on a media player like MPC-HC? I have a bunch of test files including LPCM 5.1 and 7.1, DD 5.1, DD-EX, DD+, DTS-HD MA, and Dolby TrueHD and could share them with you if you need.

    Why do you need all the Dolby settings in your Windows control panel? Adjusting sound settings on your receiver is probably going to give you better results.

    I'm pretty sure the dual-cable setup will be a much better solution, especially if you watch movies. Dolby Digital 5.1 can sound good, but it is rather compressed.
    I use MPC-HC as my primary way of watching movies I download so yeah, nothing seems to get that sub-woofer kicking the way it did under Windows with the Nvidia HD Audio driver. I just did a full mic 5.1 sound re-calibration with my old Denon receiver so I know my Denon's 5.1 dolby modes are working as they should. Btw,, there is sub-woofer activation when I use Fat Guy's instructions but it's very weak for some reason and I don't want to go into my Denon and increase the subwoofer volume levels manually because it's just putting a bandaid on a bigger issue in windows. There's something going on that's keeping that sub-woofer from working as it should using the APO method so I'll try the display port to AVR option to see if it gets my system poppin' again.

    Sure, if you want to share some of those sound test files I'm sure others would find them useful too. Thanks for your help..
      My Computer


  10. Posts : 6
    windows 10
       #90

    BuzzBuzzBuzz said:
    That cable should work, but I'd recommend spending a few extra bucks and getting a cable or adapter that can handle 4K60 or 4K120, just in case you ever need it. Also make sure the cable is long enough.

    Have you tested the subwoofer using different sources, including surround sound tracks, on a media player like MPC-HC? I have a bunch of test files including LPCM 5.1 and 7.1, DD 5.1, DD-EX, DD+, DTS-HD MA, and Dolby TrueHD and could share them with you if you need.

    Why do you need all the Dolby settings in your Windows control panel? Adjusting sound settings on your receiver is probably going to give you better results.

    I'm pretty sure the dual-cable setup will be a much better solution, especially if you watch movies. Dolby Digital 5.1 can sound good, but it is rather compressed.
    Update: well, I got the DisplayPort-to-HDMI adapter/cable and it works fine; everything is almost exactly the way it was before - Windows 10 recognizes it as an Nvidia High Definition Audio Device under Windows 10 and all my dolby options (5.1, 7.1, etc) are back. Unfortunately, I now have a permanent "phantom" display (showing up as the Denon AV Receiver) and as a result my mouse cursor now constantly gets lost off to the side of my desktop. I tried forcing Windows to only see that primary display (the OLED) but that ends up disabling my audio coming from the Denon.

    It's extremely annoying constantly losing that mouse cursor on my desktop that I have to move back and I'm seriously considering going back to the APO fix (btw, the DisplayPort-to-HDMI adapter technique requires no drivers at least) or even just running the RTX 3070 directly through my AVR again and out to the OLED (though I lose 4K/120Hz doing that). Anyone have any ideas on how to get rid of that phantom display caused by the DP-to-HDMI option?
      My Computer


 

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