Force HDMI to carry 5.1 Dolby or whatever  

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  1. Posts : 1,100
    11 Home
       #91

    Tartarus89 said:
    It's extremely annoying constantly losing that mouse cursor on my desktop that I have to move back
    On the LG C2 remote, press ⚙️ → ⋮ → [Picture] → [Aspect Ratio] → try to expriment with the options there.

    EDIT: Another option that you could try would be to hook up the Denon to the TV via the eARC feature of the TV. This will let the PC send the signal to the TV, and the TV sends the audio part of the signal to the AVR. (That is, instead of letting the PC send the signal to the AVR, and the AVR sends the signal to the TV.)
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  2. Posts : 6
    windows 10
       #92

    hdmi said:
    On the LG C2 remote, press ⚙️ → ⋮ → [Picture] → [Aspect Ratio] → try to expriment with the options there.

    EDIT: Another option that you could try would be to hook up the Denon to the TV via the eARC feature of the TV. This will let the PC send the signal to the TV, and the TV sends the audio part of the signal to the AVR. (That is, instead of letting the PC send the signal to the AVR, and the AVR sends the signal to the TV.)
    I experimented with these options but with no success. I'm thinking of just going back to connecting my RTX 3070 directly to my old Denon AVR and out from the receiver to the OLED. Since my AV receiver is so old, it doesn't support 4K/120hz, only 4K/60hz, but since I have an LG C2 with VRR and G-sync (screen tearing is the great bane of PC gamers), do I even really need 120Hz? 60 Hz is perfectly fine for movies and gaming + it dramatically saves power consumption. If I want to play a game at 120+ FPS, I'll just turn vsync off and use RivaTuner to limit and lock framerate at 120 FPS or whatever and let VRR and G-Synch take care of the tearing (though I noticed it's not perfect at doing this but certainly better than without).

    It was probably a big waste to spend a small fortune on this OLED for its 120Hz features since I don't game with consoles so I may even return the LG C2 and get a QLED or at least a much more inexpensive OLED. I think the LG C2 is very overrated for the price and I have a month to decide if I want to return it.
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  3. Posts : 1,100
    11 Home
       #93

    Tartarus89 said:
    I experimented with these options but with no success. I'm thinking of just going back to connecting my RTX 3070 directly to my old Denon AVR and out from the receiver to the OLED. Since my AV receiver is so old, it doesn't support 4K/120hz, only 4K/60hz, but since I have an LG C2 with VRR and G-sync (screen tearing is the great bane of PC gamers), do I even really need 120Hz? 60 Hz is perfectly fine for movies and gaming + it dramatically saves power consumption. If I want to play a game at 120+ FPS, I'll just turn vsync off and use RivaTuner to limit and lock framerate at 120 FPS or whatever and let VRR and G-Synch take care of the tearing (though I noticed it's not perfect at doing this but certainly better than without).

    It was probably a big waste to spend a small fortune on this OLED for its 120Hz features since I don't game with consoles so I may even return the LG C2 and get a QLED or at least a much more inexpensive OLED. I think the LG C2 is very overrated for the price and I have a month to decide it I want to return it.
    My Emotiva UMC-200 is 11 years old, so it doesn't support 4K either. The solution that worked for me was eARC, but it took a while until I figured out how to set it up in my Sony Bravia XR-55X90J. I am quite happy with this TV, I bought it new at just 849 Euros almost half a year ago, but when it first came out (21 months ago or thereabout) it too was heavily overpriced IMO.
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  4. Posts : 5
    Windows 11
       #94

    Tartarus89 said:
    Update: well, I got the DisplayPort-to-HDMI adapter/cable and it works fine; everything is almost exactly the way it was before - Windows 10 recognizes it as an Nvidia High Definition Audio Device under Windows 10 and all my dolby options (5.1, 7.1, etc) are back. Unfortunately, I now have a permanent "phantom" display (showing up as the Denon AV Receiver) and as a result my mouse cursor now constantly gets lost off to the side of my desktop. I tried forcing Windows to only see that primary display (the OLED) but that ends up disabling my audio coming from the Denon.

    It's extremely annoying constantly losing that mouse cursor on my desktop that I have to move back and I'm seriously considering going back to the APO fix (btw, the DisplayPort-to-HDMI adapter technique requires no drivers at least) or even just running the RTX 3070 directly through my AVR again and out to the OLED (though I lose 4K/120Hz doing that). Anyone have any ideas on how to get rid of that phantom display caused by the DP-to-HDMI option?
    To remove the display from your desktop: How to Remove Display from Desktop in Windows 10

    Here is a folder that contains files with the following soundtracks:
    • LPCM 5.1
    • AAC 5.1
    • Dolby Digital (AC-3) 5.1
    • Dolby Digital Plus (E-AC-3) 5.1
    • Dolby Digital Plus (E-AC-3) 7.1
    • Dolby TrueHD 7.1
    • Dolby Atmos (E-AC-3 with JOC) 5.1.2
    • Dolby Atmos 5.1.4
    • Dolby Atmos 7.1.2
    • Dolby Atmos 7.1.4
    • DTS-HD Master Audio 5.1
    • DTS-HD Master Audio 7.1
    • DTS:X (object emulator)
    • Dolby Digital Plus audio sync test

    That should probably cover 95%+ of surround sound titles available.
    Last edited by BuzzBuzzBuzz; 3 Weeks Ago at 08:21.
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  5. Posts : 6
    windows 10
       #95

    BuzzBuzzBuzz said:
    To remove the display from your desktop: How to Remove Display from Desktop in Windows 10.
    Alas, I'm using the LTSC version of Windows 10 and the option doesn't show up.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Update: I did find the option to lock the cursor to one display in Windows 10. You just go into Display Settings from your desktop and drag the icon of the secondary display so that it's diagonal to the primary screen and now the mouse cursor no longer gets lost in the edges/corners of my desktop. This is great because it means I can now connect my RTX 3070 directly to the LG OLED and get that 120 Hz refresh rate and VRR if I need it though I normally stay at 60Hz for power conservation reasons. I only wonder if having this "phantom" extended display coming from my Denon AVR affects frame rates in games. I doubt it but I'll be testing it to make certain.

    Btw, thanks, BuzzBuzzBuzz, for suggesting the DP-to-HDMI adapter procedure, and for the audio test files. Those should come in handy for testing and troubleshooting. So far everything sounds as it should in my system... finally
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  6. Posts : 5
    Windows 11
       #96

    Tartarus89 said:
    Alas, I'm using the LTSC version of Windows 10 and the option doesn't show up.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Btw, thanks, BuzzBuzzBuzz, for suggesting the DP-to-HDMI adapter procedure, and for the audio test files. Those should come in handy for testing and troubleshooting. So far everything sounds as it should in my system... finally
    You're welcome! I can't seem to edit my post, but I've added test files with Dolby Atmos 9.1.6 and DTS 7.1.4 (what they call 11.1).

    With the APO driver and Dolby Home Theater V4 hooked to my HDMI output, all channels appear where they should (properly downmixed) on my 5.1 system using MPC-HC, VLC, and Windows Media Player. The only exception is the LPCM file, which works fine in MPC-HC and VLC, but which Windows Media Player incorrectly assigns the surround and LFE channels.
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