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Which Windows Services Can You Safely Disable?
My laptop getting slow to boot so i decide to turn off some unused services maybe like print spooler, remote desktop etc, so i need your guys to help me decide this.
Thanks in advance..
Which Windows Services Can You Safely Disable?
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New #2
Hello, just a comment on services: trying to solve that by disabling services is unlikely to help, and you're more likely than not to run into problems doing it.
For reference, service lists are maintained by Black Viper. (Just search). But I'd leave well alone.
Please see discussion here.
Boot Time with SSD and Win 10 is 90 sec. - Windows 10 Forums
There are tools you can use to analyse your boot sequence, but I'm not an expert in that, so hopefully when you've read that someone else may be able to help.
Also please fill out your system spec so people know what hardware you're using, and also your Windows version and whether you upgraded or clean installed.
Then, to check basic things are ok:
From an admin command prompt
[Windows key + X, click command prompt (admin)]
chkdsk C: /F
Your PC will need to restart.
Make sure the result is clear or fixed.
Post back the result, which you can get after a restart as follows:
How do I see the results of a CHKDSK that ran on boot? - Ask Leo!
If clear, then proceed with
From an admin command prompt
[Windows key + X, click command prompt (admin)]
sfc /scannow
This will take some time.
Some history would help too.. for example:
Things were fine until I did the anniversary upgrade. After that my system has become slower and slower..
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New #4
I wouldn't mess with the Microsoft services. You could install Autoruns and review the non-Microsoft start-up items, tasks & services. Generally you want to keep the Intel ones and anything related to your antivirus program.
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New #6
you can turn off superfetch, seems to help free up RAM usage a fair bit. all it tries to do is ridiculous things like load huge programs into memory that you've used "often"
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New #7
Forget trying to speed up your system by shutting down services, this is not XP.
Don't worry about memory load, unused memory is something you do not want, it's a waste of resources.
Remove any start-up programs that are not essential using the start up tab of the task manager or use Autoruns from Microsoft (carefully as this is a program that can lead to a re-install if misused)
Add an SSD for your Windows Drive
Add more RAM
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New #8
Great post, I have done all this since Windows 7. I would only add, look at your BIOS time in Task manager under the startup tab.:
If you have any external disks, try turning them off for boot, then turn them on after, and any other peripherals you can.
CMOS checks what's hooked up during boot, and that can slow things down.
Or if you have an older motherboard, like me, then, well... that's what's going to take the longest during boot, and you won't be able to do anything about it.
NoteThe BIOS time only shows up if you are using GPT(UEFI) partitioning.
It will not show up if you are using MBR(legacy BIOS).
More infos: What Is āLast BIOS Timeā in the Windows Task Manager?
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New #9
After much researching (particularly Blackviper) and experimentation, here's the ones I disable on my PC. I'll list the default setting on Windows 10 Pro, which I change to Disabled, and the reason why I disable after each one, you can decide if it applies to you.
Bluetooth Support Service - Manual (Trigger Start) - I don't use Bluetooth from my PC.
BranchCache - Manual - Because I'm not hooked up to an office server environment.
Certificate Propagation - Manual - Because I don't use a smartcard reader.
Connected User Experiences and Telemetry - Automatic - Because privacy. This and dmwappushsvc send (IMO too much) info about you to Microsoft. Note there are a couple of policy settings/registry key settings (depending on whether you're on Pro/Home) you should also modify when disabling these.
Distributed Link Tracking Client - Automatic - Because I have a small home network, and none of us go around making symbolic links to our shared files, which we hardly ever actually share anyway.
dmwappushsvc - Automatic (Delayed Start) - For privacy. This and Connected User Experiences have to be disabled to stop sending everything to Microsoft.
## Enterprise App Management Service - Manual - I actually haven't disabled this, but probably should. Because I'm not running any Enterprise apps to my knowledge, and you probably aren't either.
Geolocation Service - Manual (Trigger Start) - It's a PC. It's not moving anywhere.
Retail Demo Service - Manual - The Retail Demo can wipe your entire PC if activated. Better to uninstall it completely from the Settings menu. If the service is still enabled after that, disable it.
Touch Keyboard and Handwriting Panel Service - Manual (Trigger Start) - I don't have a touchscreen. Obviously, don't disable this if you do have one.
On the Windows Anniversary Update, I've also disabled the Windows Search service, which really is just indexing. (Note that this will also disable the dependent Windows Media Player Network Sharing Service). These two are the only services I'll sometimes go back and re-enable and disable as needed, but it's needed very rarely. I know of only one app at the moment (besides Windows Media Player, as noted above) that requires indexing to be on, when you're adding new music to folders being watched by Groove Music. The metadata for the songs you're adding won't fill in properly with indexing turned off. Other than that, it really doesn't seem to do a lot for you besides throw annoying Windows Event log errors, especially if you're on a very fast SSD like I am. In particular, if you do a backup with indexing running, expect several dozen errors about a corrupted index when you restore.
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New #10
Oh, as for the SuperFetch thing, I'm actually having a conversation with the Intel folks right now about whether or not it should be disabled on an Intel SSD, since what their software says and what they say seems to be inconsistent atm. Looking forward to an answer on Monday (or an update to the Intel SSD Toolbox sometime after that):
https://communities.intel.com/message/415621#415621
EDIT: Oh! One last thing. I never looked at that Last BIOS time thing until I saw it mentioned in this thread.
And... um...
Yeah, that would be wrong. My BIOS time is not 18029.7 seconds. Did it get changed to milliseconds recently or something?
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