Windows 10: New build part list

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  1. essenbe's Avatar
    Posts : 11,342
    Windows 10 Pro and Windows 10 Pro Insider
       16 Dec 2017 #91

    I believe you can get a full cover waterblock for about $139 from EK on the boards they make them for. Basically, I assume you are paying for the EK Waterblock on the Formula.
      My ComputersSystem Spec

  2. essenbe's Avatar
    Posts : 11,342
    Windows 10 Pro and Windows 10 Pro Insider
       16 Dec 2017 #92

    So far, I haven't see a need for an extra fan. I have the hardware to do it with my board. I just haven't seen any reason to. I was just running AIDA and the Real Bench stress test at 4.8 and my MB temps were 30C. I've never seen it go over about 40.
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  3. Cliff S's Avatar
    Posts : 21,636
    Win10 Pro, Win10 Pro N, Win10 Home, Win10 Pro Insider Fast Ring, Windows 8.1 Pro, Ubuntu
       16 Dec 2017 #93

    essenbe said: View Post
    So far, I haven't see a need for an extra fan. I have the hardware to do it with my board. I just haven't seen any reason to. I was just running AIDA and the Real Bench stress test at 4.8 and my MB temps were 30C. I've never seen it go over about 40.
    The only thing with adding the fan there, that I question would be:
    When I get a case finally that has good air flow, wouldn't the little fan, though small (and probably running slow as it is there just to blow the warmth from the VRM heat sink(s) away), still slightly effect the total airflow of the case. I mean optimal flow should be an air stream; front to back, dissipating heat from video card, VRMs, and motherboard generally,, with my radiator at the top for my CPU.
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  4. essenbe's Avatar
    Posts : 11,342
    Windows 10 Pro and Windows 10 Pro Insider
       16 Dec 2017 #94

    First, a 40mm fan isn't going to run slow. It's going to run fast and pretty loud. I also doubt it will put out enough air to disrupt airflow, but I can't say for sure. I would think you would have enough bigger fans that would overpower anything the little 40mm would put out.

    What I would suggest is do what I did. Build without the 40 mm fan and just see what your VRM temps are like. If you need it, add it later. Personally, like I told you before, I think all this VRM temp worries are way overblown. You almost have to try to overheat them. Yes, it can be done, just like you can overheat almost any component in your computer if you try to. But, not doing what we would normally do.

    Remember, you have to turn thermal protection off in order to do it. I don't know any valid reason to do that unless you are trying to overpower the board or trying for a 7 Ghz overclock. Plus, all the VRM talk was on a different chipset with a 140 watt CPU, not on this board and this CPU. Even then, it could only be done with 1 program in 1 specific test. If your VRM starts getting warmer than you like, add the fan. It shouldn't be that difficult to do.
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  5. Cliff S's Avatar
    Posts : 21,636
    Win10 Pro, Win10 Pro N, Win10 Home, Win10 Pro Insider Fast Ring, Windows 8.1 Pro, Ubuntu
       16 Dec 2017 #95

    essenbe said: View Post
    First, a 40mm fan isn't going to run slow. A also doubt it will put out enough air to disrupt airflow, but I can't say for sure. I would think you would have enough bigger fans that would overpower anything the 40mm would put out.

    What I would suggest is do what I did. Build without the 40 mm fan and just see what your VRM temps are like. If yo need it, add it later. Personally, like I told you before, I think all this VRM temp worries are way overblown. You almost have to try to overheat them. Yes, it can be done, just like you can overheat almost any component in your computer if you try to. But, not doing what we would normally do.
    Steve, the VRMs getting warm was the problem with my last build on the MSI board
    I had thoroughly tested it, and my OC stayed put, when I left all my windows opened and the apartment was cooled down(fall and winter) and I took an old hair dryer and blew the cool air directly on them, so the problem isn't overblown, but as I told you before, the In Win 303 might look good, but is still lousy at thermals.
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  6. essenbe's Avatar
    Posts : 11,342
    Windows 10 Pro and Windows 10 Pro Insider
       16 Dec 2017 #96

    But, you aren't using an MSI board anymore

    Have you had problems with the VRM temps yet?
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  7. Cliff S's Avatar
    Posts : 21,636
    Win10 Pro, Win10 Pro N, Win10 Home, Win10 Pro Insider Fast Ring, Windows 8.1 Pro, Ubuntu
       16 Dec 2017 #97

    essenbe said: View Post
    But, you aren't using an MSI board anymore

    True

    I think a good case that has a tight fit(not too wide so the air pressure from the fans gets weakened) about the size of the one I have now, but with a little more room(an inch or so) in the back for cable management will be perfect.
    One, that if it has a front panel that can be taken off temporarily when needed, like benchmarking or video processing, will be just fine.

    Oh, no over heat yet, but it is winter, and my ambient temp is only 22C
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  8. Layback Bear's Avatar
    Posts : 994
    Windows 7/64 Professional
       16 Dec 2017 #98

    I have two systems. (In my specs).

    Both have all fans blowing in except the top fans which which blow out; their are 6 push/pull through a 360 radiator.
    The fan on the back of the cases blow across the VRM. I have never had a problem with VRM over heating, with or without the fan blowing on the VRM. BUT with testing with a infrared temp gun I did notice the VRM was cooler with the fan blowing on them.

    I block all hoses that are not being used and that includes all PCi empty slots in the back of the computer and all unused
    5 1/4 slots.
    All air comes in where I want it to and goes out where I want it to.
    All incoming air is filtered.

    I smoke test the case to make sure it's sealed. Now to test for positive pressure in the case, smoke is useful again.
    Using smoke just crack a side panel or 5 /1/4 bay and see which way the smoke goes. If the smoke goes in the case you DO NOT have a positive pressure case.

    Some say I go to extremes. Why not? What one spends on a system keeping it cool is a must. Keeping cat hair, cig smoke and dust out of the computer is a must also in my opinion.

    Both cpu's are 140W.

    This is my temps under normal use. I think it proves my methods has merits.
    Ambient is 20C at this time.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Using the computer last summer without air conditioning. I will be back with a 100% load in a few minutes.






    Jack
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Capture.PNG RealTemp.PNG  
      My ComputersSystem Spec

  9. Layback Bear's Avatar
    Posts : 994
    Windows 7/64 Professional
       16 Dec 2017 #99

    I'm back.

    100% Load test. Ambient today in my computer room is 20C.

    The best I can tell is my methods with a little paranoia do work. I seldom get over 10% load when I'm not testing or running scans like MRT. Those scans do run about 25% cpu load.

    All I'm saying, with a little extra work and planning does help with cooling.

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    Jack
    Last edited by Layback Bear; 16 Dec 2017 at 14:49.
      My ComputersSystem Spec

  10. Brink's Avatar
    Posts : 33,008
    64-bit Windows 10 Pro build 18252
    Thread Starter
       16 Dec 2017 #100

    It has been put together. My system specs have been updated for the new build.

    Here are some pics so far of it in a Corsair Air 740 case. I'm still tweaking and tuning everything.

    Right side:

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    Left side:

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    Powered up:

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      My ComputersSystem Spec


 
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