Windows 10: Need suggestion on how to fix an error that doesn't exist.
Need suggestion on how to fix an error that doesn't exist.
Odd question for sure, but I can't help that my wife's uncle is a total moron when it comes to computers and networking. The current argument and the reason I need some advice for some networking parts is he insists on using his 14 year old Netgear router. The darn thing uses Wep security, transmits only in the 2.4Ghz range and he refuses to let me change the stock sign in name and password from admin/password to something more secure!
Due to an injury from a car accident I need to work from home. To do so I purchased (although pre-owned) newer router that's dual channel, offers it's own additional firewall, and uses wpa2-psk wireless password protection, along with a bunch of other features I've been too busy to dig into just yet.
Now I bought this back in August, had his router removed and mine running the whole house's network for 4 months, he goes and screws up something on his computer and then blames my router for causing the issue! I've tried repeatedly to help him sort out the issues he's having with his computer not connecting to the internet and why his telephone (Magic Jack) isn't working right. Keep in mind this all worked just fine for 4 months. I'd have better luck trying to teach a dog what a black hole is and the dog understanding then convincing him my router is just fine.
I have however gotten him to agree to allow me to put in a bridge after the cable modem, then run a Ethernet cable to our bedroom where the Roku, PS3, laptop (when I'm not working), and my wife's tablet are. I can then move my router in there. The uncle now believes even though I have my router plugged into his as a subnet, and they're 10 feet apart, that mine is interfering with his causing his computer to slow down. (Doesn't have to do anything with him leaving 10 or more searches open in Google all the time...or all the malware he has on his system....)
I started to do some browsing at Office Max as they have a store a short cab ride away from home I can pick stuff up from. I noticed that not all cables or bridges are created equal by how wide the price range is. I just started working from home in December, there are so many things we really NEED, I don't want to spend money on something that's not necessary. It's my hopes that with my new income and a few other things in the works, that my family and will move to our own place this year. I had planned on setting up a network similar to this so I would hard wire anything that wasn't portable. Please take this in to consideration while recommending a good cable and bridge.
I took a Net+ course way back in 2002. At that time we wired everything with cat5 cables. I just did a quick read on what the different cat's mean. I'm now thinking that investing in cat6 might just be worth it since I'm looking at this for business and streaming video such as Sling or Sony's Vue. Will I ever fully utilize the capabilities of a Cat6a cable, who knows what tomorrow will bring? That leaves me with which bridge to get? I know it wouldn't make sense to get something other then one rated for 10/100/1000 as that's what my router is rated and I know all my devices can use this.
The way we were taught what a bridge was, it's very similar to a stop sign where as a router is like a smart traffic light that knows to turn which light to turn green while turning the other direct red and doing so that there's never any cars waiting. Basically a bridge is stupid and router is smart. Then other then speed and number of ports, what warrants such huge price difference? I do plan on doing a bit more research before buying either bridge or cable, but I wanted to ask for some suggestions here as well.
While I'm thinking about it, I had bought a dual band dongle for my laptop, as my laptop can't make use of the 5.8Ghz band. Eventually I'll get a more current triple channel router with ac spec, so I'd like a recommendation for one of these. The one I bought was an off brand one, it worked but I barely bumped it, and it split in half and stopped working. So, I'd like some suggestions for one of these, and perhaps get everything from Amazon and save myself cab fare of $20 or more each way. (That's more then shipping from Amazon!)
Ugh! Messed up in my first post. First, I wish to appologize for such a long ramble. I'll keep this short and sweet. I want to place a switch after the modem, then set the two routers up as two separate networks. This way the uncle can keep using his unsecure network believing it's just fine. Only issue I'll have to be aware of, is when I'm working as I'll have to plug my laptop into his router in the den where the modem, his router and switch will be. Did some reading today, understand some switches also have QoS ability. His router doesn't have it, mine his has it, but it's bios controlled, can't make any tweaks to it.
Retired from the grind
I know that we all helped on this Help me optimize my network please! which goes along with your current issue with the change. What is more important. A stable network or food? I built my network over time and with that, I use a "Edge" router behind my U-Verse Gateway, because it allows me to build out my network as I need it and also be able to have to just swap one item, not a whole lot.
With two Gateways in use, you are not going to be able to place both Gateways behind the modem if it is a true modem not a eMTA. If it is a eMTA and then the older Gateway, you would have to go through a lot of trial and error in getting both Gateways stable.
If there is just a modem and you can afford to pay for a second IP, that is the best way, or just start paying for your own Internet Service and set it up your way.
I use all Cat-5e on my 10/100/1000mbps network, that is also Wireless-a/b/g/n/ac 2.4ghz/5ghz. Not exactly a cheap budget router or Access Point, since they are considered business grade.
As for stable connection, does not matter the age of the gateway. What matters is the signal quality, which involves the channel, the noise for that channel that comes from Microwaves, Ham Radios, AM & FM radio stations around the area, High Voltage Power Lines, etc..
You are still a guest in the uncle's house, so it is his rules his house. If he wants to mess up his computer, wipe your hands of it and do not even mention anything about it or his network. Let him come ask you to show him how to go through and fix things.
You can always check Amazon and Newegg. EeBay you are really taking some risks on hardware. Monoprice has some decent prices on network gear, same thing as some of the other online eTailers.
Yeah, you did help quite a bit with that. Too bad I went and busted the dongle I ended up getting. Now I need a new one of those as well. Stupid mistake on my part, and it's going to cost me. I agree, I get so worked up about the uncle, I'm ready to pop a gasket in my head sometimes. To paraphrase my daughter while she's watching Frozen, I need to just "Let it go!"
There has been a change since I asked for assistance on optimizing my network, that being I am working now. I found an independent contractor type legitimate work from home position. So, now my question turns to this aspect of the uncle's portion of the network. Since I cannot place a switch after the modem (Motorola Surfboard SB6141) to his router (Netgear WGR614 v9) just how much of a security risk is his router?
If I plug my router into his creating a subnet of my own, I can lock down just the subnet with the features of my router (TP-Link N750). But when I'm working I am required by the company I have contracted with to be hard wired to an access point. This will be the uncle's router as I'm moving my router into our bedroom down the hall. I am currently using Windows Firewall and Windows Defender for protection. Should I be looking at something better? If so, what?
The only thing I can think of beyond adding more software protection while I'm wired to his router, is if there's any suggestions as to any tweak I can do to the router's settings. Mind you, once I'm wired, I can easily (too easily) access his router and change any settings as necessary. Any ideas about that? I've already flashed the bios to the latest version. Not much you can change on something that first came out in 2003!
Youse guys are above my head on this thread. The only solution I thought I saw, which I will repeat: Since you are working from within a home, keep all of your stuff, hardware, software, business material, for your work in your room [which has a lock on it for when you are out]; be connected to a totally separate network, your own modem-router. Why are you having to plug your laptop into his network? I'm confused here. Are you a freelancer or are you working for a company?
Roland, yeah for tax purposes I'm considered an "independent contractor". There are job like doing truck, trailer reservations for U-haul that you actually are an employee of the company. I'm also looking into doing freelance work through websites like Upwork and Freelancer. I've a back injury that prevents me from standing and walking, yet I still have a family to support and I don't qualify for disability. You do what you have to do to support those you love.
I am unable to work from my bedroom, there's just not enough room in there. Nor can I currently afford my own cable internet connection. I'd still have to ask his permission to have the cable company come out and install it, which I have a better chance of becoming a QB for the Chicago Bears and winning the Super bowl next year, then that ever happening. So on the five days a week I work, I fight traffic all the way down the hallway (20 feet) to his "computer room" where the modem and his router is, then plug into it for work, as I'm required to do so for security reasons.
Watch 2.4Ghz channels when setting up your router. If you have Android phone go to google play store and get wi-fi analyzer. It will allow you to see what is around and the best choice of channels.
Wifi Analyzer - Android Apps on Google Play
Apart from your Uncle's router running WEP, it is his machine you have to be worried about it. So when you connect to his router you have to select Public not Private Network and don't allow sharing. Discovery should be shut off by default when you select Private. You can likely find a used "G" class router or a non wireless router to create yet another subnet in the computer room, and plug into that for work. This will really firewall you off. If you find an inexpensive router, and its wireless, enter the router software and shut radio off so no interference with Uncle's and again a separate ip range. You can find a linksys "G" on craiglist for $10. Reset it, may be flash it. Set you IP range, shut off wireless, make uncle happy. At end of day pack the works into briefcase and hit the traffic in the hallway.
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