Help me optimize my network please!

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  1. Posts : 9,788
    Mac OS Catalina
       #21

    Kbird said:
    the new nic should answer the question about whether the existing one is just flakey or not .....

    Maybe your UIL just runs the Microwave upstairs when he knows you are online :)
    Ugh, you would mention the M word. Mine drops because our Microwave is getting older and the Magnetron is starting to wreck havoc on our wireless. It only lasts as long for the time that the Magnetron kicks in and then back off at the end of the cycle, which allows wifi to work.
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  2. Posts : 2,324
    Win10
       #22

    bro67 said:
    Ugh, you would mention the M word. Mine drops because our Microwave is getting older and the Magnetron is starting to wreck havoc on our wireless. It only lasts as long for the time that the Magnetron kicks in and then back off at the end of the cycle, which allows wifi to work.

    Ohhh I know it happens , screws up my Cell too sometimes if I am too close....

    If the UIL has a 13yr old Router its likely he still has the Original Microwave from 1980 too.... it still works !
    :)
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  3. Posts : 172
    Windows 10
    Thread Starter
       #23

    I'd like to know.... Someone suggested I take out a key in registry and then reset the network configuration then.... Would that help?
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  4. Posts : 9,788
    Mac OS Catalina
       #24

    jayv2251 said:
    I'd like to know.... Someone suggested I take out a key in registry and then reset the network configuration then.... Would that help?
    There is no key in the registry to reset the network. If it is only your computer that is having issues, try a different network adapter. There is network hardware from 20 years ago that still works like a charm today.
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  5. Posts : 172
    Windows 10
    Thread Starter
       #25

    I think I may have used the wrong term, I didn't mean network, I meant network card settings being reset via the registry. Someone on a FB page mentioned it, so I took some notes about it, just never got around to implementing it as my dual band nic came in the mail last week! Wooohoo!!! Hardly get bumped at all now. About the only thing I might be tempted to do at this time is change the setting on my 5ghz ssid to N only (none of my stuff can receive AC as of right now), leave the 2.4ghz sside at G/N for the PS3's sake until family and I move and we can hard wire it...(or I buy a ps4...<evil laugh!>) Sooooo as of now I'm gonna say this issue has been resolved folks! Thanks for the tips!!!
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  6. Posts : 12
    Win 10
       #26

    Hi I'm not sure if you've resolved your laptop connectivity issues yet but reading the thread reminded of a similar issue I had with a windows tablet - also a 2.4GHz only adapter.

    It seems that some wireless nic's are a bit fussy (read flakey) wrt some router settings. As you have a TP-Link router (as do I) it might be worth looking at the following options "Wireless>Settings" - I'm assuming the GUI is the same(ish).

    Channel: Auto
    Channel width: Automatic (setting 40MHz for example tanked the performance to dial-up levels)

    And under "Wireless advanced"

    Beacon Interval: 100 (this is the default, going higher caused connectivity issues for me, you might want to try lower to see if it helps)
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  7. Posts : 2,324
    Win10
       #27

    He didnt report back here Onum, but I saw on another thread he got a new wireless Dongle with AC and it is working much better.

    Funny my TP link C7 needs 40mhz to get speeds over 150mb ...upto 300mb then on 2.4ghz.

    I have never played with the beacon interval but i know on mine it is at 50.
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  8. Posts : 172
    Windows 10
    Thread Starter
       #28

    Yeah, I'm juggling several issues at once, with job hunting, homeschooling, health issues all at once. I seem to have asked the same question in different formats in different forums out of sheer frustration giving me something else to clean up now! <sigh> Yes, I did bump the 2.4ghz ssid to 40mhz wide. Still had issues with a neighboring network. This all ended once my new dongle arrived and I was able to go dual band p to 5ghz. (The router isn't capable of AC, but does do 5ghz N). Honestly, if it wasn't for the PS3's need to use the G spec, I'd change both ssid's to N spec exclusively since everything else is capable of that spec.
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