Partition table problem with Windows update

Slartybart · 31 May 2016

NavyLCDR said:

...
Use MiniTool Partition Wizard to shrink the C: drive (Windows 7) partition by 100 GB, remove the 100 GB from the front of the partition, not the back of it. Add 400 MB (not GB!) to the system partition making it 500 MB total in size. In the remaining empty space, create a primary, NTFS partition. Don't forget to click the Apply button in MiniTool.

There isn't any real need to create the 100 GB space. If that was created it would push the OS further on the disk, increasing seek times.
Edit - strike this wrong statement: ~~Additionally, it would be an extended partition with logical drives, not a primary (it would be the 4th part on disk 0 - Recovery, System, Boot, NewPart).~~

This should be sufficient to resolve the SysRsv issue:

Use MiniTool Partition Wizard to shrink the C: drive (labeled Gateway ~~Windows 7~~) partition by ~~100 GB~~ 400 MB, remove the ~~100 GB~~ 400 MB from the front of the partition, not the back of it. Add 400 MB (not GB!) to the system partition making it 500 MB total in size. ~~In the remaining empty space, create a primary, NTFS partition.~~ Don't forget to click the Apply button in MiniTool.

Anyway, just curious why you suggest creating that partition, and more to the point, why in front of the Boot (Gateway C:) partition.

NavyLCDR · 31 May 2016

Slartybart said:

Anyway, just curious why you suggest creating that partition, and more to the point, why in front of the Boot (Gateway C:) partition.

I suggested creating an empty partition between the system partition and the C: drive partition so that free space could be added to the system partition. If you create the free space at the end of the disk, it can't be added to the system partition because the free space must be adjacent to the partition it is intended to be added to.

My goal for the separate Windows 10 installation would be #1 to prove that Windows 10 could actually be installed on the computer and #2 to allow the user to have a transition period. Actually, the dual boot transition period would even remain compliant with the EULA so long as the Windows 10 was not activated. It could be installed and remain unactivated as long as the user desired, and then when everything was finalized, it could be activated by either manually entering the Windows 7 product key or copying the genuineticket.xml file to the proper folder in Windows 10.

After everything was sorted out - Windows 10 was proven to run on the computer (more to the user than anyone else), the user either transitioned everything to the Windows 10, or they fixed the Windows 7, or they just decided to stick with the Windows 7 as is, then it is a very simple matter to delete the undesired OS.

Slartybart said:

There isn't any real need to create the 100 GB space. If that was created it would push the OS further on the disk, increasing seek times.

The dual boot arrangement would only be temporary. After the decision was made to keep one Windows installation only, the disk could easily be restored to a single OS partition.

Slartybart said:

Additionally, it would be an extended partition with logical drives, not a primary (it would be the 4th part on disk 0 - Recovery, System, Boot, NewPart).

Can you explain, please, why there cannot be 4 primary partitions on an MBR disk? Four primary partitions are the maximum allowed on MBR disks.

Slartybart · 31 May 2016

NavyLCDR said:

...
Can you explain, please, why there cannot be 4 primary partitions on an MBR disk? Four primary partitions are the maximum allowed on MBR disks.

Thanks for the explanation Navy.

I can always count on you to keep me honest.

There is no issue with 4 Primary parts - I misspoke. I struck the erroneous statement in my previous post.

Bill
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pmennen · 31 May 2016

Ok, thanks for all the discussion ... not all of which I have completely absorbed yet. I'm still somewhat undecided since how to proceed with the W7 to W10 upgrade is more complicated than I first thought, not to mention the Simrick indicated that this upgrade path is often fraught with problems. If it was easy I would do it anyway, but it seems that it is not. If we decide to do a fresh install I was thinking it might make sense to buy another disk so that we would get a big boost in performance to justify our efforts. Perhaps something like the ADATA 240GB SATA ($58, plus some more for mounting tray and cable) or maybe something like the Seagate 1TB Desktop Solid State Hybrid Drive which would be about the same total cost. If that makes any sense, any opinions about which type of drive would be better?

If we plugged that into the same spot the old C drive was the new drive would become the C drive right? Then if I plugged the old C drive into another spot it would become the D drive?? (I've done this before but it has been so long I forgot how drive letters are assigned). Sorry, this may be the wrong forum for those questions I just realized.

~Paul

Slartybart · 31 May 2016

Only sometimes

If you're budget allows, then I would suggest investing in a SSD boot drive.

Hybrids give a bit of a boost over plain spinners

I have suggested this before to other members.

Replace the HDD, keep the old drive out of the system. The old drive becomes your backup.
The best install is with a base machine (one drive, mouse, keyboard, and monitor - that's all)

I'll bow out - you already have top notch members helping.

Bill
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simrick · 31 May 2016

I second @Slartybart's recommendation. Just remember to have ONLY the one drive in the system when you clean install, otherwise you could run into problems with Windows putting some of the boot files on the other drive. And yes, that one drive will be C, and when you eventually connect the other for storage, it will be something else (IDK-maybe D will be your optical drive).

NavyLCDR · 31 May 2016

Under normal circumstances, the partition that contains the Windows installation that the computer loads gets the letter C:. It doesn't really matter which port it is plugged into on the motherboard. If you dual boot, the drive letters assigned to the partitions will change. Let's say you have Windows 7 on a HDD and Windows 10 on an SSD and have dual booting set up. When you boot into Windows 7, the HDD gets drive letter C:. The SSD would get D: or the next drive letter. When you boot into Windows 10, the SSD would get drive letter C: and the HDD would get D: or the next drive letter.

pmennen · 01 Jun 2016

Ok ... I'm convinced. Fresh install win10 on a new SSD boot drive with old drive removed. What I suspect is my last question ... how to validate? Can I just use the key on the COA sticker glued to the desktop case ... or do I have to plug in the old drive and somehow extract the license from that?

~Paul

NavyLCDR · 01 Jun 2016

pmennen said:

Can I just use the key on the COA sticker glued to the desktop case ... or do I have to plug in the old drive and somehow extract the license from that?

~Paul

Either way should activate Windows 10.

simrick · 01 Jun 2016

pmennen said:

Ok ... I'm convinced. Fresh install win10 on a new SSD boot drive with old drive removed. What I suspect is my last question ... how to validate? Can I just use the key on the COA sticker glued to the desktop case ... or do I have to plug in the old drive and somehow extract the license from that?

~Paul

The COA sticker should activate the system just fine.