Monitors stay black


  1. Posts : 14
    Win10
       #1

    Monitors stay black


    Hello,

    today I tried to turn on my PC, but all 3 of my monitors remained black and did not show anything.
    My System:

    AMD Ryzen 5 3600 WRAITH 3600 AM4
    Asus ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING B450
    D416GB 3200-16-18-18 Ripjaws V K2 GSK
    SSD 500GB 2.3/3.4G 970 EVO PCIe M.2 SAM
    Tt TR2 S 700W ATX23
    EVGA 8GB D6 RTX 3060 Ti FTW3 ULTRA
    Windows 10 Pro

    Monitors:
    AOC 27G2U 27
    Acer b223wl
    Asus VS247HR

    What I tried so far:
    Plug in every monitor individually
    tried hdmi and displayports
    removed the graphic card and tried it with the on board graphic
    tried each ram individually

    none of these things worked.

    Something else worth mentioning, the motherboard has 4 LED's indicating problems and the green one of them stays lit - green meets "boot".

    Does anyone has any idead?


    (also, maybe that is relevant, 2 weeks ago I had blue screens while installing windows - those could be fixed with a bios update, the thread for this is here: Several BSOD during Win10 installation)
      My Computer


  2. Posts : 1,550
    11, 10, 8.1 and 7 all Professional versions, and Linux Mint
       #2

    1. Re boot led
    [Motherboard] ASUS motherboard troubleshooting via Q-LED indicators | Official Support | ASUS Global
    obviously sata cable does not apply to your M2 - check other points please

    2. If you can access one time boot options at post check - boot is to windows boot manager

    3. If boot is so to the correct windows boot manager and M2 is secure etc, then enter setup and check boot device there.

    4. Since your last thread and just prior to the no display has there been any other problems noticed.

    5. If no to point 4 and checking M2 etc cleaning insertion produces no results I suspect the M2 take it out and see if the computer then posts and goes straight to UEFI setup with display
    Could possibly be failed M2
      My Computer


  3. Posts : 14
    Win10
    Thread Starter
       #3

    Hi,

    thanks for the reply. I think I could locate the problem - seems to be the PSU.
    I tried it with a different (old) graphic card that does not have such high power demand and it worked fine.
    Then I put the 3060 back in, but removed all additional drives and mouse/keyboard and started it and had an image again.
    I assume my new keyboard might have been too much now (roccat vulcan 121), the previous logitech keyboard had an external power supply, the vulcan gets everything via usb and maybe that was that little bit too much that drove it over the edge... idk, just an assumption. but graphic card and m2 seem fine, so I'll try with replacing the PSU now, got told several times already that it is a trashy one and too weak for that pc.
      My Computer


  4. Posts : 1,156
    Windows 10 Pro 64-bit v21H2
       #4

    Nvidia GeForce RTX 3060 Ti:

    • Recommended System Power: 600W


    Get a good name brand power supply. It wouldn't hurt to even get a 700-750 watt power supply.

    BTW, the AMD Ryzen 5 3600 does NOT have integrated graphics. The video connectors on the motherboard work only if you are using an APU type CPU with integrated graphics like the AMD Ryzen 3200G or 3400G.
      My Computers


  5. Posts : 1,550
    11, 10, 8.1 and 7 all Professional versions, and Linux Mint
       #5

    The motherboard leds were as you know on the other thread I worked on with you never lit
    While booting, none of the motherboard leds remains lit, they just light up shortly, orange, red, white, green and off.

    The PSU if by
    Tt TR2 S 700W ATX23
    that you mean
    Thermaltake TR2 700 W Power Supply Review | Hardware Secrets

    was actually quite a good standard PSU and certainly not
    got told several times already that it is a trashy one and too weak for that pc.
    However it is I think quite old and of course PSU`s do fail
    Have you reconnected the power surge you previously used

    As I mentioned on the earlier thread, they can be faulty, especially after any power surges.

    I missed that you had connected to the I/O port graphics and my colleague raises a good point that your CPU does NOT have integrated graphics, that is WHY I never suggested trying them on the previous topic.

    As important as the make of the PSU is the type of PSU and I do not mean the wattage of it.
    If you look at thermaltake
    Computer Power Supply | Desktop & Gaming PC Power Supply
    80 PLUS
    Titanium
    Platinum
    Gold
    Bronze
    Standard
    None

    and these are better explained at for instance Corsair
    https://www.corsair.com/uk/en/Catego...erSupply_Units
    so a CX series PSU at Corsair is
    CX Series Modular power supply units are an excellent choice for basic system builds and desktop PC computer upgrades, offering high reliability, low noise, and the flexibility of modular cabling.

    and if you then look at the CX you see
    there is no mention of all japenese capacitors
    and no protection other than standard
    whereas if you go to GOLD standard you see
    100% ALL JAPANESE 105C CAPACITORS
    Premium internal components ensure unwavering power delivery and long-term reliability.
    Special Technology OVP (Over Voltage)
    UVP (Under Voltage)
    SCP (Short Circuit)
    OTP (Over Temp)
    OPP (Over Power)
    Protections Yes

    and then if look even more expensive at SF750
    The CORSAIR SF750 80 PLUS Platinum SFX Power Supply is an extraordinarily power-dense PSU, ready to power the most cutting-edge small form factor PCs with 750 continuous watts.

    It is all a question of how much you want to spend - do not buy a PSU even a thermaltake or corsair or other renowned make that is shown as for a basic system as the CX Corsair is
    CX Series Modular power supply units are an excellent choice for basic system builds and desktop PC computer upgrades, offering high reliability, low noise, and the flexibility of modular cabling.
    If you are going to drive the PSU by gaming etc. It is OK for light gaming and general browsing, but NOT for regular use at high load. Even if you have a 700W and are only using for instance 4/500
    it is still not meant to be used for hours at that level.

    So in summary there are general use PSU`s and what may in your case be called Gaming PSU`s

    Your total power draw on your GPU is
    Access Denied
    200 watt

    then you have to add the power required by the CPU - 65 watt nominal load higher if you OC
    the ram
    the board and the rest of the system.
    AMD Ryzen 5 3600 review - Conclusion
    As my colleague says go for what you have now 700
    If you find a gold standard Corsair or Thermaltake - that will do you fine
    gold standard has 3% +/- ON VOLTAGES.

    I would check carefully connections from the PSU to the main 24 pin and the aux 12v
    I would try without surge if you have connected it.

    I would also run a voltage check using such as
    HWMONITOR | Softwares | CPUID

    download the app
    run the computer on normal browsing - check voltages on 12V etc
    run game and check again
      My Computer


 

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