Event ID 41: System rebooted without cleanly shutting down first

Motherboard / CPU information from collected log files:

Code:

Processor	AMD Ryzen 5 1400 Quad-Core Processor, 3800 Mhz, 4 Core(s), 8 Logical Processor(s)
BaseBoard Manufacturer	ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC.
BaseBoard Product	PRIME B350M-A
BaseBoard Version	Rev X.0x

Ghot said:

Your motherboard...

ASUS Prime B350M-A/CSM AM4 Micro ATX Motherboards - AMD - Newegg.com






Your motherboard manual (PDF)...
https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/m...RIME%20B350M-A

Thank you!

BIOS update completed with no problems!

I'll spend the rest of the day window shopping power supplies :). I'll post again when I've changed it!

Okay, found out the PC uses 500W.

Should I aim above 650W just in case? I was gonna place an order.

The processor's TDP is 65W and the GPU's TDP is 75W. You could be under 200W at load (a computer I had with those TDP's pulled 190W at most). That computer used a 450W PSU (Corsair 450VX) bought in 2007, that I'm still using in another computer with the same or lower power specs, so the unit has never been "forced" at all.

Consumption depends only on processor and GPU, except possibly if you have many disk drives. Memory pulls really little power, about 3W per module. That said (and theoretically, I haven't seen this in practice), a better PSU can increase stability and balance the added stress of having more memory (in practice, I have only seen stability differences in some cases when installing the max allowed RAM).

But currently all PSUs tend to have about the same power, 600-700W (except if you need to feed several high-power gfx cards). Efficiency of electronics manufacturing uses to find advantages in uniformizing parts (like big capacitors, roughly if all big capacitors are the same as big => same PSU spec) but this comes at a price for the consumer: high quality and low quality are mixed, how to tell? It's either brand prestige or price, unless you find some serious technical review.

Do you have a surge protector? I routinely use them (cheap ones) since the 90's, although my zone has high quality mains. This habit doesn't let me evaluate well what happens w/o vs with one. At the very least, they're like a power strip that allow easily "unplugging" of the CPU, monitor and speakers when not in use, servicing the computers or doing "total reboots" that might be needed.

About 2 years ago I had to replace a 13 years old PSU that stopped being able to boot. After doing it, I saw fixed some slight instability problems that I wasn't aiming to fix because I thought they were for the "general oldness" of the build, specially at bootup (like not all systray icons loading always, it's a Windows 7 with about 14 such icons). In general, my experience with "bad" PSUs is that they cause problems specially at bootup (well, a lot of time ago I used unbranded 200-300W PSUs, and I replaced every one for the following cause: "the computer wouldn't react at all to the power button/switch, w/o apparent reason"; although there're other possible causes of this problem, replacing the PSU fixed it in every case w/o exception).

The above replacement was an ancient Corsair 550VX for an MSI MPG A650GF 650W 80 Plus Gold Modular that was on sale and I found good reviews of the electrical part. It's working okay but... I found it a bit noisy so I replaced its fan for a Noctua (what voided the warranty but I don't expect having to use it). I had to undo this change because the Noctua hadn't a low enough starting voltage and it tended to stop in winter. The interesting part of this: the PSU case is so flimsy that it isn't able to hold its shape w/o the other parts attached to it, including the one that holds the fan, that fits exactly in a hole for it and it's screwed. This rigid enough sheet has tiny holes to let the air pass through, but this arrangement requires a more powerful fan than say a normal 120/140 mm grill. Nice trick to do a PSU case with aluminum foil . If I recall it I'll watch the air entry of the next PSU I buy.

Your current eVGA 500B1 isn't high-end although it's fine for your build. 6-7 years lasting at half power is too little though.

I don't have surge protection.

I got an 850W while it was on sale. Maybe overkill but that's okay. There's room for upgrades right?

- - - Updated - - -

Lightly vacuumed the machine to blow the dust away from bottom of power supply then changed it.

Will monitor for anything. I've placed PC in optimal performance mode & high performance as well.

- - - Updated - - -

Just crashed 10 minutes ago, so I suppose it's not the power supply after all...

What entries does Reliability History have and do the entries cover the first crash?

joeandmarg0 said:

What entries does Reliability History have and do the entries cover the first crash?

It just tells me Windows was not properly shut down

dalchina said:

Did this only start after you added/replaced RAM?

Your specs have no info on you disks. For test purposes remove all disks other than your system disk.

An experiment to try:
Create and boot your PC from a live boot disk. (Google that if unsure what it is).

If your PC crashes then, it's not your installed O/S (and I'd be surprise if it was with the reports you're seeing).

Please confirm you are not over-clocking.

Also confirm you do not use driver updaters (3rd party tools).

This was happening before I changed rams, I've been troubleshooting as it's a custom built PC.

I will add my hard drives into specs shortly!

I'm in Asus Optimal mode, is that over-clocking?

I did use UCheck by Adlice. Does that count?


On side note - my graphics card is 8 years old, would that mean anything?