I'm dual booting two windows 10, bootgmr issue

jimbo45 said:

SSD's --no moving parts !!!!
Cheers
jimbo

Contacts and cables.

CountMike said:

You get more physical wear and tear by physically switching drives than from letting them run all the time, more accidents happen from dropping drives. Besides, when you have all drives running you can share files between them or fix problems on each one.
If your BIOS allows it, it's better to just disable unwanted drives.

By switching I mean this:



As I said "Switching" not "Hot Swapping", sorry for not being clearer

Switching also helps keep the "Time to Complete Failure Down" on SSD/HDD so to me it is practical if you can trust you own soldering skills, but since I build my own amplifiers, pre-amps for the last 35 years I am very confident with my skills & knowledge.

RoadBlaster said:

By switching I mean this:



As I said "Switching" not "Hot Swapping", sorry for not being clearer

Switching also helps keep the "Time to Complete Failure Down" on SSD/HDD so to me it is practical if you can trust you own soldering skills, but since I build my own amplifiers, pre-amps for the last 35 years I am very confident with my skills & knowledge.

Ah that's somewhat different story,there used to be and maybe even now such switching boards to buy. I Just use drives in removable and switchable trays, 3 for 3.5" and 2 for 2.5" drives but NVME is on MB so not easily removable but I can disable it from BIOS when and if need be.
I need removable trays for few backup disks which shouldn't ordinarily be online for security reasons.

CountMike said:

Ah that's somewhat different story,there used to be and maybe even now such switching boards to buy. I Just use drives in removable and switchable trays, 3 for 3.5" and 2 for 2.5" drives but NVME is on MB so not easily removable but I can disable it from BIOS when and if need be.
I need removable trays for few backup disks which shouldn't ordinarily be online for security reasons.

I find it easier to use an old metal box (drill it out paint with hammerite then cure in the oven for 1 hour) from stripped for parts electonics item then buy 3 switches as I have all the cables & every type of crimp/solder connector to make every type of power connector inside a pc & sourced as parts is alot cheaper & to my specification.
This would help allot when you need to delete the boot drive from an m.2 as it is hard to boot anything else once m.2 has the boot ?

Since also etch pcb & use a CAD circuit design program I have been thinking the future of my would be to make a screened pcb connector which plugs into the m.2 socket the take it to a m.2 with switch tap on it, I have seen some made by a manufactuer on the biggest online retailer, uk.

Sometimes custom made bits can never be matched by manufacturers as we all have our own idea how we want things to perform ect, ect.

Back in 2012 I used a server case & 8 hot swap caddys for my system from a closed down shop now, but tech has shrunk so much now.

RoadBlaster said:

I find it easier to use an old metal box (drill it out paint with hammerite then cure in the oven for 1 hour) from stripped for parts electonics item then buy 3 switches as I have all the cables & every type of crimp/solder connector to make every type of power connector inside a pc & sourced as parts is alot cheaper & to my specification.
This would help allot when you need to delete the boot drive from an m.2 as it is hard to boot anything else once m.2 has the boot ?

Since also etch pcb & use a CAD circuit design program I have been thinking the future of my would be to make a screened pcb connector which plugs into the m.2 socket the take it to a m.2 with switch tap on it, I have seen some made by a manufactuer on the biggest online retailer, uk.

Sometimes custom made bits can never be matched by manufacturers as we all have our own idea how we want things to perform ect, ect.

Back in 2012 I used a server case & 8 hot swap caddys for my system from a closed down shop now, but tech has shrunk so much now.

We are going in off topic here but do you switch off/on all voltages or just ground with those switches ?

CountMike said:

We are going in off topic here but do you switch off/on all voltages or just ground with those switches ?

I always use the 5v & 12v to keep the data lines shielded, can power them up when O.S is on & it does not shut down due to power surge as the toggles work fast with no arcing.

A little off topic but relavant if dual booting from separate drives perhaps ! even though the thread topic is not what is wanted !

RoadBlaster said:

I always use the 5v & 12v to keep the data lines shielded, can power them up when O.S is on & it does not shut down due to power surge as the toggles work fast with no arcing.

A little off topic but relavant if dual booting from separate drives perhaps ! even though the thread topic is not what is wanted !

Maybe you could put up schematic and some instructions in Hardware section ? Long time ago in times of analog controls I used to make some really complicated mechanical switches like for instance switch for VGA to 13 pin Atari ST monitors and parallel to serial switch converter as well as multiple KB and mouse switches to use on several computers. At that time my main job was to reprogram and make new control panels for automatic production machines, comparing to these, switches were a piece of cake.

I did that on my Commodore 64, I even made two taped decks work so one loaded the game while the other copied it, good for friends who had out of alignment tape recordings - nothing too dodgy, lol

FYI - V2004 is ready at windows to download the iso...

RoadBlaster said:

I did that on my Commodore 64, I even made two taped decks work so one loaded the game while the other copied it, good for friends who had out of alignment tape recordings - nothing too dodgy, lol

FYI - V2004 is ready at windows to download the iso...

Good old times eh ? I still remember making new controls for a WWII vintage Bullard 6 station vertical mill and lathe automatic machine to make disk brake disks, took 16 miles of wire to connect about 100 relays to corresponding switches and hydraulic valves and motors, took me over a month including drawing schematic with only one helper. Two years late I replaced it with one of first IBM digital controller which I programmed on a Timex Sinclair ZX81 and transferred program by audio cassette. Lucky for me Commodore C20 tape deck was available.
Ps, WU is still not showing 2004, wonder if MCT is updated yet.