As you can see from the length of this post, your issue could be a wide range of issues...
Did you perform system critical driver installs in the proper order prior to installing any Windows Updates or software?
Did you ensure all drivers installed were Windows 10 drivers?
Do you have a Broadcom WiFi card? If so, disable the card in BIOS as a quick way to rule out it's drivers... if the issue goes away, uninstall those specific drivers, upon reboot, open up Device Manager, select the WiFi card, select uninstall, tick the box to delete install files, reboot afterwards. Broadcom WiFi Windows 10 driver packages are known to contain Windows 8 sys files, and while Broadcom was made aware of this 4 months ago, the specific driver packages have not been pulled or updated.
Your issue isn't Windows 10, so stating something ridiculous like "Going back to 7 ASAP" is simply ignorant, and makes users, like me, contemplate whether it's even worth the time help. Windows 10 is stable and almost every issue thus far can be narrowed down to the end user's environment. In other words, your problem is either due to not following the steps that are required when a clean install is performed (i.e. system critical driver install order prior to installing Windows Updates and software), or installing drivers/software that are not compatible with Windows 10.
If, as you say, there really are "No Windows errors, logs, etc", then that right there irrefutably shows it's not Windows 10. However, it appears you've simply failed to do the research, as there should be something in the Windows Event Logs if the system is hanging due to software/OS issues. If there really is nothing in the event logs, your problem could be a failing/damaged hdd and you need to verify its S.M.A.R.T. data (simply because an HDD is new does negate it's risk of failing right out of the box). Windows doesn't have the best software for this, so I generally use a *nix OS to garnish the data with smartctl -a /dev/ada1 (where ada1 is the disk in question, could be sda as well). You can boot a linux live cd (gpart, PartedMagic, etc.) and run the above command from a terminal. If it's none of the above, have you verified it's not a malware or virus?
Have you installed or ran any warez software or keygens? Almost all keygens and warez patches contain malicious code, with some patch applications installing a hidden exe or com file that's been attached and hidden inside of the patch [CORE's patch for Yamicsoft software is a prime example, and will result in massive performance loss beginning a few days after the patch is applied]. This is a prime example on why it's worth buying software, versus running cracked software... it's extremely easy (taking less than 60 seconds) to attach a hidden exe or com file to another executable which launches upon opening the host exe or com file, and yes, it's quite easy for such software to not be detected by antivirus/HIPS software. This is also why you should only install software that's been downloaded directly from it's developer/manufacturer.
The fact you're stating your issues have occurred on three separate devices in and of itself demonstrates there's a 99.99% probability the issues are environment driven or user error in the clean install process. While I understand how frustrating issues can be, especially if you have little knowledge on where to start, when users state they're going back to a previous OS due to issues that are most likely a result of the end user themselves, it makes me question the point of helping that user. It's the equivalent of buying a new car, changing the brakes yourself, then wanting to return the car because of a horrible squeal and grinding sound when you're braking.