HG's PC upgrade

CountMike · 25 Oct 2014

Layback Bear said:

I'm not really sure why those extra 4 pins on a motherboard do. I do believe that they weren't put there just because the manufacture had spare time on their hands.
I do recommend using a proper quality power supply. If your motherboard has a 24 pin connector then use a power supply of quality with a 24 pin connector.

I am sure, those are duplicates of same voltages in 20 pin. Usually needed only when using a lot of power thru MB or a lot of OC.

LittleJay · 25 Oct 2014

HippsieGypsie said:

Ugh! Nightmare here again! I get the replacement PSU this afternoon and install it. The thing boots up first passing the BIOS post, after a few seconds I see the start flag, and then it goes into a repair on disk I, which is my 10 partition. This is understandable since the PSU crashed on that side. It gets done and boots into 8.1, but with no boot choice/options screen as usual before that. I thought ok, 10 may be damaged. I see the constant red LED light which it's read/writing to the HD, which is usual for this machine.

I let it do it's thing while I went to the washroom. Came back a few minutes later and the thing is off. I hit the power button and nothing. I slid the thing sideways to unplug it, but while doing that I see a flash and hear a pop coming from the back of the PSU. I think the little bit of vibration must have done something? Ugh!!!

Is this just a case of cheap PSU? Mismatched PSU, although I researched it thoroughly? I know all connectors are matched and on. What could possibly be wrong?

In the mean time I'll yank it and have it tested, but pretty sure it's fried. I think I'm going to go ahead and order the one you suggest, indianatone. Thanks for that!

This is just frustrating as all get up and go!

I'll just bet you are frustrated HG! Hopefully nothing else on the MB got fried along with the PSU.

Tony K · 25 Oct 2014

Thanks again, guys. It's at least comforting to know that some care. Lol! My fiance jokes about my hobby with things like "OMG! Your what went out?!!" In a sarcastic tone of course. Or "Your a nerd when it comes to that!" Or "You're lucky you have other things going for you". But, hey! I think she likes me!

Doesn't look like anything got fried on the MoBo via a look/see check, LJ. Hopefully nothing did.

So far as 20 vs 24 pin connector is concerned > Yes, the proper way is a 24 pin, but as the Count and Indianatone stated, it would work, but not so sure under a load? That's my best guess.

I'm dead in the water so far as the spares I have anyway. One is a 200 watt, which is insufficient and the other is a 250 watt which is, but both do not have power connector for my HD.

Now it's the weekend and can't do anything until Monday morning, unless I find one locally which, of course, will cost more. The frustrating thing is missing the time with 10TP!

LittleJay · 25 Oct 2014

Hey HG, a couple years ago I replaced the PSU in an older HP computer with an Ultra 600 watt unit from NewEgg. I went with the Ultra not only because it was reasonably priced, but it also had decent user ratings. The unit runs pretty quietly and it has been rock solid so far.

Layback Bear · 27 Oct 2014

While getting rid of one of my very old computers the only thing I save was the Ultra 650W power supply. It has always been a quality power power supply every time I have used it. My local dealer sells box loads of them with out problems.
I use it for test at the present time. I just don't like the fact that it isn't modular.
I would use a Ultra again.

Indianatone · 27 Oct 2014

HG. Buy the best power supply you can afford. It will pay you back tenfold. You have seen what happens with cheap and nasty PSU, and they can take out your hard drive, cpu ram etc. I would get a 500w as a minimum as often the power rating is down hill with the wind behind it (and sails). The psu in my main machine is a 1000W Enermax and cost me about $230 and will last 10 years at least and give me super quality power to my pride and joy.....

I have not been active for the last few days as I am in severe nerve pain.....

pparks1 · 27 Oct 2014

Buy a quality power supply, but probably nothing approaching 1,000 watts. Most people overbuy on their PSU's. I run a 620 in mine.

Tony K · 28 Oct 2014

Thank you, fellow forumeers. Much appreciated! :)

Sorry to read of your condition, indianatone. I hope you get to feeling better!

It was a 250 watt unit in it that ran for 8 years. I sent the 630 watt piece of crap back for a refund and bought a 400 watt Corsaire from Newegg. This really isn't a high end machine. Wasn't going to spend more on it. I went for the quality. We must remember that the higher the wattage the more amps it draws. I give the power company enough as it is.

COMPUTIAC · 28 Oct 2014

HippsieGypsie said:

Thank you, fellow forumeers. Much appreciated! :)

Sorry to read of your condition, indianatone. I hope you get to feeling better!

It was a 250 watt unit in it that ran for 8 years. I sent the 630 watt piece of crap back for a refund and bought a 400 watt Corsaire from Newegg. This really isn't a high end machine. Wasn't going to spend more on it. I went for the quality. We must remember that the higher the wattage the more amps it draws. I give the power company enough as it is.

Now you're thinking with your wallet first. Power co's get too much as it is.

labeeman · 28 Oct 2014

HippsieGypsie said:

Wasn't going to spend more on it. I went for the quality. We must remember that the higher the wattage the more amps it draws. I give the power company enough as it is.

Also need to be aware that the PSU efficiency is rated only at the wattage that the PSU will supply. A 650 W PSU only delivering 200 watts is not 90% or so but much less where as a 300 W PSU delivering 200 watts will be much closer to the stated efficiency.