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#51
Thanks, guys.
I'll do more research, but it does use those 4 pins. I think the only 12v is another 4 pin connector on the top left of the MoBo for the switch, which I would guess to be an electromagnetic solenoid, yes? I'll check the outputs of the 24 pin connector.
A plus when something breaks is that I'm forced to learn something even though it's a PITA. :)
No, extra 4 pin you reffer to ("another 4 pin connector on the top left of the MoBo") is to supply power to VRM (Voltage Regulator Module) to CPU and RAM + plus some other stuff depending on MB. That one (usually referred as Pentium 4 connector) has to be connected. Most of the time it's placed on MB somewhere close to CPU. The extra 4 pin on 20 + 4 pin main connector usually doesn't have to be connected.
Thanks again, guys.![]()
Here are the pin outs of the 20 24 pin connectors. Yes you can use a 20 pin on a 24 pin connector in a pinch. I would have been happier if you had bought the Corsair PSU as no name brand PC PSU IMHO are usually bad quality and a bunch of instability is usually traced right back to them. Power supplies are probably the most important part of your computer delivering clean power to the system. Like good foundations on a building. Everything relies on it and I have seen no end of things fried by bad power supplies. It is really annoying when you buy a new PSU and you get even more issues. I use Enermax Power Supplies exclusively. Other good brands are Corsiar and Silverstone but look at Johhny Guru and he tells it like it is.
PSU - Test DC Output Voltage - Windows 7 Help Forums
Power Supply Information and Selection - Tech Support Forum
The Bargain Basement Power Supply Roundup Review
Yes power supplies are the most important device in the PC but so often overlooked.
Thanks for taking the time to post all that info, Indianatone. I understand what you're saying, especially about the importance of the PSU, but I made the decision not to spend a lot of money on an eight year old system. I initially thought that I might upgrade using the same case with new MoBo, CPU, etc., but decided to build all brand new this winter and keep this old system as a testing box. The way I see it is that the wear and tear on a PSU is the long durations that they run. The test box won't be running as much.
The original PSU in this Acer is a one Delta Electronics brand which ran for 8 years rigorously. Not on your list, but perhaps I should have considered that brand.
Found this on Amazon. Delta is an OEM brand, they build for other manufacturers under their names.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...l_3idi5vnqy7_b
Ugh! Nightmare here again! I get the replacement PSU this afternoon and install it. The thing boots up first passing the BIOS post, after a few seconds I see the start flag, and then it goes into a repair on disk I, which is my 10 partition. This is understandable since the PSU crashed on that side. It gets done and boots into 8.1, but with no boot choice/options screen as usual before that. I thought ok, 10 may be damaged. I see the constant red LED light which it's read/writing to the HD, which is usual for this machine.
I let it do it's thing while I went to the washroom. Came back a few minutes later and the thing is off. I hit the power button and nothing. I slid the thing sideways to unplug it, but while doing that I see a flash and hear a pop coming from the back of the PSU. I think the little bit of vibration must have done something? Ugh!!!
Is this just a case of cheap PSU? Mismatched PSU, although I researched it thoroughly? I know all connectors are matched and on. What could possibly be wrong?
In the mean time I'll yank it and have it tested, but pretty sure it's fried. I think I'm going to go ahead and order the one you suggest, indianatone. Thanks for that!
This is just frustrating as all get up and go!