Sockets, connectors, slots, etc., pictures

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  1. Posts : 15,037
    Windows 10 IoT
       #11

    itsme1 said:
    I have quite a few hifi cables and for the computer a little less. The cables do not wear out and they can be used on recent equipment after several years. But when I found out about usb-c cables with a chip inside, I thought maybe these cables won't last as long as other type of cable.
    It's my understanding that the "E" marked cables have the chip inside. Others may not. My Raspberry Pi's are powered via a USB port. Micro USB or USB C, +5V. Same deal with my Pi Pico Micro controllers. I have to be very careful what cable i use and how I connect it. Not having any MAC hardware its not a big worry. I'm still mindful of it though. Once you let the magic blue smoke out its game over for that device.
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  2. Posts : 1,065
    windows 10
       #12

    I don't know about cables with the E marked. I will check tomorrow in google. If it is possible to avoid the chip inside that is good.
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  3. Posts : 2,190
    Windows 10 Pro 64-bit v22H2
       #13

    alphanumeric said:
    Companies that sell cables / adapters are loving that. My Raspberry Pi Single Board Computers are, depending on the model, HDMI, Mini HDMI, or Micro HDMI. And my Monitors, for the most part, are DVI. I'll regularly swapping cables around depending on which one I'm tinkering with. And don't get me started on USB ports. I have a pile of those cables to pick from depending on what I'm trying to access, power / charge, etc.
    I use a regular HDMI cable with my Raspberry Pi 3B+. I use a Micro-HDMI to HDMI cable with my Raspberry Pi 4B. I also have a Micro-HDMI to HDMI adapter so I can use a regular HDMI cable but decided one cable is better than two. For the last year I have using both my Raspberry Pis headless so log onto them using the free VNC Viewer. That way I don't have to bother with a monitor and a video cable for them.

    When I bought my first Pi I also bought a 21-inch LCD monitor with VGA, HDMI, and DVI connections. That way I can use it with any computer I have.

    BTW, normally a Raspberry Pi boots from a MicroSD card. A year ago I learned new firmware allowed the Raspberry Pi 4B to boot from USB. I now use a 32GB SanDisk Ultra Fit USB flash drive to boot it. That works great. The Ultra Fit is a good flash drive to use for this because it is really short and won't fall out like a regular size flash drive might do.

    Speaking of USB cables it was a lot simpler when you just had to contend with USB 2.0 or USB 3.0. Now you have all times of complications.:
    USB 3.0 aka USB 3.1 Gen 1 aka USB 3.2 Gen 1
    USB 3.1 aka USB 3.1 Gen 2 aka USB 3.2 Gen 2
    USB 3.2 aka USB 3.2 Gen 2x2
    USB 4 aka USB4 Gen 2x2 aka USB4 20 Gbps
    USB 4 aka USB4 Gen 3x2 aka USB4 40 Gbps

    Note even the connector type doesn't indicate speed. For example a USB A port could be faster than a USB C one. You can't tell by looking at them.

    It is common for people to think all cell phone adapters are the same as a 5VDC power adapter. For example a Raspberry PI requires a stable 5VDC power supply whose output current depends upon the model. A cell phone or tablet adapter/charger does not put out a constant 5VDC but varies the voltage to charge faster.
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  4. Posts : 2,190
    Windows 10 Pro 64-bit v22H2
       #14

    Try3 said:
    This is Ghot's ElevenForum post #31 with a link for the diagram that works.
    Looking for a particular picture... | Page 2 | Windows 11 Forum

    All the best,
    Denis
    That link doesn't work. How about this one...

    I found the Computer Hardware chart v2.0 (7200 x 9600)
    Very large Computer Hardware chart (sockets, connectors, cables, etc.) | Windows 11 Forum
      My Computers


  5. Posts : 15,037
    Windows 10 IoT
       #15

    itsme1 said:
    I don't know about cables with the E marked. I will check tomorrow in google. If it is possible to avoid the chip inside that is good.
    The chip is what sets the voltage, depending on what the device needs / wants. It's what does the USB PD Power Negotiations. Without it all you get is the standard +5V. That's all I want or need, so no chip is fine for me. Most of my cables are A to C, and won't have the chip anyway. It's only the USC C to USB C etc that needs the chip.
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  6. Posts : 16,946
    Windows 10 Home x64 Version 22H2 Build 19045.4170
       #16

    MisterEd said:
    That link doesn't work. How about this one...
    Yes, Mike's been fiddling. This was the original thread
    Looking for a particular picture... - ElevenForum


    Denis
      My Computer


  7. Posts : 23,242
    Win 10 Home ♦♦♦19045.4291 (x64) [22H2]
    Thread Starter
       #17

    Try3 said:
    Yes, Mike's been fiddling. This was the original thread
    Looking for a particular picture... - ElevenForum


    Denis


    Yeah lol. These topics kind of grew of their own accord.



    These should be up to date...

    TenForums: Sockets, connectors, slots, etc., pictures

    ElevenForum: Very large Computer Hardware chart (sockets, connectors, cables, etc.)
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  8. Posts : 23,242
    Win 10 Home ♦♦♦19045.4291 (x64) [22H2]
    Thread Starter
       #18

    alphanumeric said:
    Time keeps on slippin slippin slippin, into the future.


    Fly like an eagle - Steve Miller Band
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  9. Posts : 1,065
    windows 10
       #19

    alphanumeric said:
    The chip is what sets the voltage, depending on what the device needs / wants. It's what does the USB PD Power Negotiations. Without it all you get is the standard +5V. That's all I want or need, so no chip is fine for me. Most of my cables are A to C, and won't have the chip anyway. It's only the USC C to USB C etc that needs the chip.
    Yes only take +5v to avoid the chip, like external hdd/ssd or enclosures for external hdd/ssd I think they don't need more than +5v. It is to be hoped that later things will not change, that the devices and the usba cables planned for the +5v will not be obliged to have a chip inside.
      My Computer


 

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