Slow shutdown one night and now a Disk is missing

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  1.    04 Apr 2018 #21

    The only other thing I have going is a laptop.

    The first drive that went wrong that I started the thread for I attached to the laptop with a USB-to-Sata Cable that I used to clone my old SSD to HDD (just to say that it's a working cable!) it still showed up in disk manager only and it still reported as a 0mb disk when I tried to initialize. So it wasn't a false report on the PC things ended up the same way on the Laptop.

    If I remove this second faulty drive from the PC do I risk it no longer showing up in file explorer (and only disk management) like my last one? I'm just checking because if it stops showing up properly after taking it out this could have been my last chance to run checkdisk on it.
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  2. jumanji's Avatar
    Posts : 796
    Windows 7 Ultimate 32bit
       04 Apr 2018 #22

    Terrace2 said: View Post
    .......I was going to run checkdisk with some commands I saw on the internet ( chkdsk G: /f /r /x ) but then it said at the end of the article that you could lose data and to back it all up first.......

    .....Here I am in the morning posting this and the drive is there, I ran seatools and got this message "short DST - Fail" and started to back up all my files onto another drive......
    If the drive is really failing, I wouldn't run checkdisk as aforesaid. If it fails to complete and aborts itself halfway through then it will leave your drive in a much worse condition that would leave all the data in complete disarray.

    Having said that, if you still can manage to recover the data as you said, do it as much as you can recover. When you come to the stage where you can no longer recover anything, remove it and then check it on your laptop with the USB to sata adapter which you profess to be working.

    Troubleshooting your aberrent PC even after a fresh install of Windows 10 , is a different channel in which I won't poke my nose - my ignorance . I shall come in again only after you remove the drive and connect it to a working PC - devoid of any problems - , run the manufacturer's diagnostic/repair utility and if it passes.
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  3.    04 Apr 2018 #23

    All the data is off of the drive now and backed up on another drive, the only thing that had to be skipped with a copy paste job of the entire contents was a random old Nvidia driver exe that I did not need anymore, no big loss.

    It's like the drive works until it sleeps, then when I try to access a file from it it doesn't wake up properly and ends up in a loop of unable to access the file and crashes all of windows with it.

    With all the data safely off I'll plug it into the laptop before I turn on the main PC tomorrow, i'll install seatools on the laptop and run "Long fix" is that all correct? or should I do a scan on it first?
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  4. jumanji's Avatar
    Posts : 796
    Windows 7 Ultimate 32bit
       05 Apr 2018 #24

    You will do the extended long test only if the short test fails.
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  5.    05 Apr 2018 #25

    Main computer started up really nice without this drive in it either. Task manager lists "last bios time" as 14.0 seconds, much faster.

    Laptop booted fine with the drive in it, downloaded seatools, seatools scanned for drives and I did not see it on the list, tried to open file explorer (which I think is still on quick access on the laptop) BANG! windows explorer is dead, task bar not responding, file explorer never opens, only the mouse cursor and the already open seatools responding. CTRL+ALT+DEL brings does bring up the task manager but restart just hangs.

    So main PC looking great without the drive, and now the laptop crashes haha. I put a little sticker on the sata cable and the power cable that the hard drive was plugged into on the main PC, just to try not using those next time I get a drive.

    restarted the laptop, drive isn't in file explorer but is in disk manager as H: removable a 0mb disk no option to initialize, options are:

    Change Drive Letter and Path...
    Eject (greyed out)
    Properties
    Help

    In the task bar for remove USB device you can click it but there is no device in the list just "...." as the thing to safely remove.
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  6. jumanji's Avatar
    Posts : 796
    Windows 7 Ultimate 32bit
       05 Apr 2018 #26

    Bad luck. I would write-off both your drives. No question about it. Two drives failing in succession within a short interval is a rare occurrence that makes it unbelievable. ( I am now struggling with my English - unbelievable :).)

    Now you can concentrate upon setting your other PC right.
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  7.    05 Apr 2018 #27

    I took some pictures just in case there was anything of interest in them, if there isn't then reply back that there is nothing there and I'll mark the topic as solved! Thank you for all the help.

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  8. jumanji's Avatar
    Posts : 796
    Windows 7 Ultimate 32bit
       05 Apr 2018 #28

    Are you sure that Disk 1 Removable ( H: ) No Media is your faulty drive? ( I am not :))

    Please do this: Disconnect from the Internet/network so that your network drives do not show up. Safely remove all other storage devices like External drives/ Flash drives/USB hubs/ Card Reader/ USB docks / USB Printers etc. ( Practically nothing plugged into the USB ports except USB Keyboard and USB mouse if you are using those.) If your laptop has a built-in Card Reader, disable it temporarily in Device Manager.

    Now plug in only your faulty drive. If your drive shows up with the drive letter as above with "No media" and allows you to change the drive letter, change it to one unused drive letter like R,S,T,U, V,W . Once done try to format that drive.

    This is the last thing you can do/try. Doesn't succeed????

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  9.    19 Sep 2018 #29

    edit: my story telling is probably terrible, lots to cover and a bad memory, if anything I wrote needs expanding upon let me know.

    So around the time we were discussing this I got an abscess under a bad tooth and this wouldn't normally be a problem but i'm an agoraphobic who hasn't been out of his house since 2010 so I tried to wait it out... a poor strategy.

    back to the computers, the drives really were dead and the computer just kept turning itself on any time of day randomly when it was plugged in and failed to boot if I switched off the plug until i unplugged it and plugged it back in again pretty weird.
    Then the computer would just turn off whilst I was in the middle of using it and not having tons of replacement parts to test with, I just went with the simplest answer and I was even reminded of this so I brought a new PSU

    Caledon Ken said: View Post
    Yes two drives failing at once ( or close enough ) is unusual. What is the power like where you are? I believe desktops should be fed through a UPS. Surges, voltage drops and flickers are hard on devices. Where I live flickers are part of life.
    When the new PSU arrived and I took out the old one imagine my shock when i saw the old one was melting inside, I have a really cheap smart phone, literally the cheapest just enough to telephone people and use security code apps but I can take a picture if anyone is really curious. To describe it in text though I would say it looks like all the tubes and electronics inside the PSU are leaking what looks like if someone took a blowtorch to some Marshmallow or used a blowtorch on Styrofoam packaging. this goop is all over the coils and bits.

    With the new PSU the computer stopped booting itself up randomly, no more drives died and everything seemed ok until today. (April - Late September) When I was playing the video game Dark Souls and my computer just suddenly powered down like I'd had a power cut, a still image was left on my screen until it went black, I was about to ask if someone in the house had tripped the switch for the electrics when I noticed the monitor light and my dehumidifier were still on... it was just the PC.

    The PC now will not do anything when I press the power on switch, no lights no fans no nothing, but the network LED lights up at the back of the case when the PC is plugged in, I tried other sockets in the house and it still won't turn on.

    The new PSU is a gold rated 800w or 900w or something, not sure where I put the box with the details on and I don't leave my computer on all night or anything and it's not under and heavy load and it hasn't even lasted a few months, very suspicious.

    I feel like there's something wrong with the actual electrics in my house, power supplies keep dying, hard drives dying, I had to refund a slew of pre built PC's and a lot of AMD graphics cards that just kept on going wrong, I have a dell laptop that sometimes makes a very loud beep and a error message on screen about the power source it's plugged into and doesn't boot further unless you strike F1 to continue, this laptop also seems to have caught randomly turning on when it's plugged in and the battery only lasts 30 second when not plugged in (so it always has to be plugged into the mains when you want to use it.)

    Is it likely the PSU is dead if nothing comes to life pressing the power button? is there likely something wrong with my electrics, I don't have one of those meters you can plug into the wall and even if I did I wouldn't know what the results meant, if an electrician did it would it be possible he got a good enough reading for something simple like a TV and give it the all clear even if it's not good enough for a PC? It would be terrible to scratch that off my list only for it to turn out the electrician wasn't concerned past a certain grade of "ok"

    How good does the electricity going inside a Uninterrupted Power Supply need to be if I get one of those, can bad electrics going into a UPS cause the same damage to the unit anyway making the whole thing a little pointless without work on the electrics?
    Last edited by Terrace2; 19 Sep 2018 at 14:06.
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  10. Caledon Ken's Avatar
    Posts : 11,073
    Windows 10 Pro x64 Build 1803
       19 Sep 2018 #30

    Sorry to hear about your medical issues.

    Wow... Sure I loved to see a pic.

    You would have to ask the electrician how he/she can monitor for a period of time. In reality they should do a general maintenance starting at meter base then panel and finally it you have the circuit charted the connections in the plugs and lights.

    Do you have any large loads in your home that are periodically connected, like window AC's, stand alone heaters or electric base board heaters. I ask as they draw down significantly on the source and can influence power reaching PC if they share circuit.

    True story, I had a customer call about a PC shutdown. While I was there looking at device the lights dimmed for a second and sure enough PC crashed. So I asked what just kicked in, turns out a 1500 watt honey heater. Over here that is what a circuit provides so it just sucked the life out of the circuit.

    Regarding your Dell laptop, make sure you have the right power brick for your device. Unfortunately if you have more than one adapter the wrong one can be connected. (Been there, done that). You get a message about voltage. The check the output ratings on adapter.

    UPS - Yes but you have to buy one that handles voltage fluctuations, not all models do. Where I live the voltage use to slide all the way to 108 in the winter, what they call a brown out. The service has been upgrade significantly in the town so that is now resolved. Use to be you could set sensitivity to voltage fluctuation rather tight. My current APC does not kick in until 88v, useless. My next UPS I will investigate Cyberpower and their software.


    Ken
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