The Raspberry Pi Thread [3]


  1. Posts : 5,707
    insider build 10586.3 win10 pro 64
       #511

    Disordering a 40pin header has to be the hardest thing I have accomplished so far with a Pi Zero ,lol and the pi zero still worked ,,I had to remove the header so I could use the pi zero in a tight space that didn't need the header ..
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  2. Posts : 2,662
    W10 Pro (desktop), W11 (laptop), W11Pro (tablet)
       #512

    I assume you meant "desoldering" a 40-pin hedaer?

    Did you use a solder sucker or solder wick to remove the solder in order to remove the header?
      My Computer


  3. Posts : 5,707
    insider build 10586.3 win10 pro 64
       #513
      My Computer


  4. Posts : 5,707
    insider build 10586.3 win10 pro 64
       #514

    strollin said:
    I assume you meant "desoldering" a 40-pin hedaer?

    Did you use a solder sucker or solder wick to remove the solder in order to remove the header?
    yes that what I meant ,I suck at spelling .
    I use a combination of both tools .. and a hacksaw ,lol
      My Computer


  5. Posts : 15,037
    Windows 10 IoT
    Thread Starter
       #515

    Too late now, but I would have just traded you one without for one with. I don't solder mine in until I'm sure I need it. I have one original without the camera connector and 2 with. Only one of the new ones has the header soldered in. It's plugged into my explorer pHat. Removing IC's isn't too bad 12 or 14 pins usually. Headers are a pain, 40 pins is a lot. Like you said, you get worried all that heat is going to damage something. I usually do every 3rd or 4th pin in each row. Then go back and do the ones next to the ones I unsoldered the first time through. Wash rinse repeat. Kind of like what you do when you solder them in, spread the heat as evenly as possible. If you don't care about recovering the header, just pull the pins out with needle nose pliers one at a time as you heat the solder up. They slide right out of the plastic bit when hot. Solder gets left behind that way though, so you may have to do more clean up if you ever decide to put another header back in.
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  6. Posts : 15,037
    Windows 10 IoT
    Thread Starter
       #516

    Eye hallways spall cheque my post bee 4 posting.
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  7. Posts : 15,037
    Windows 10 IoT
    Thread Starter
       #517

    The second one looks like the one you actually bought, and the one I will be buying in the very near future.

    SmartiPi Touch - Pimoroni
      My Computer


  8. Posts : 15,037
    Windows 10 IoT
    Thread Starter
       #518

    New version of LibreElec out, for those that use it. LibreELEC – Just enough OS for KODI
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  9. Posts : 5,707
    insider build 10586.3 win10 pro 64
       #519

    yes is it and just by looks, its 10 time the other one is
    alphanumeric said:
    The second one looks like the one you actually bought, and the one I will be buying in the very near future.

    SmartiPi Touch - Pimoroni
      My Computer


  10. Posts : 5,707
    insider build 10586.3 win10 pro 64
       #520

    no you wouldn't have swapped me for this one , it was the one that I soldered the wifi/Bluetooth header to ,and awhile back I broke the camera port trying to remove the Pi-Zero from the flashlight case ,I had it hot glued into the old flash light case a little to good .lol

    and I really did use the hacksaw to cut the pins between the wifi hat and the Pi .. the wifi hat took the brunt of the hacksaw and will likely never work again ,, the Bluetooth sucked on it anyway , could get it to connect to any of the 4 or 5 things it tried to connect to ,all things that my Pi3 Bluetooth would connect to ..


    alphanumeric said:
    Too late now, but I would have just traded you one without for one with. I don't solder mine in until I'm sure I need it. I have one original without the camera connector and 2 with. Only one of the new ones has the header soldered in. It's plugged into my explorer pHat. Removing IC's isn't too bad 12 or 14 pins usually. Headers are a pain, 40 pins is a lot. Like you said, you get worried all that heat is going to damage something. I usually do every 3rd or 4th pin in each row. Then go back and do the ones next to the ones I unsoldered the first time through. Wash rinse repeat. Kind of like what you do when you solder them in, spread the heat as evenly as possible. If you don't care about recovering the header, just pull the pins out with needle nose pliers one at a time as you heat the solder up. They slide right out of the plastic bit when hot. Solder gets left behind that way though, so you may have to do more clean up if you ever decide to put another header back in.
      My Computer


 

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