Pc receives power but does not boot.

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  1. Posts : 4,453
    Win 11 Pro 22000.708
       #11

    Cedsays said:
    Yeah, sorry. Working on details. It's just a little difficult to get proper formatting on mobile.

    Cpu - i5-6500
    Mobo - MSI-H81M
    Psu - corsair hx750
    Gpu - sapphire r9 290 tri-x
    Ram - 2x 8GB gskill nt ddr4

    Pressing the power button may wake a pc in sleep mode. I usually always did with either my keyboard or mouse. If the pc had already shut down before I got home would make more sense than the pc powering down from sleep mode I guess.
    There are more than a few 'H81M' boards out there from MSI.

    I assume that they all have jumpers to clear the CMOS settings. On the H81M-E35, it's labelled JBAT1.
      My Computers


  2. Posts : 30
    Windows 10
    Thread Starter
       #12

    bobkn said:
    There are more than a few 'H81M' boards out there from MSI.

    I assume that they all have jumpers to clear the CMOS settings. On the H81M-E35, it's labelled JBAT1.
    Sorry. The complete model is

    MSI H81M-E34 LGA 1150 Intel H81 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard

    I don't have the manual but can download it and find the jumper.
      My Computer


  3. Posts : 13,987
    Win10 Pro and Home, Win11 Pro and Home, Win7, Linux Mint
       #13

    If you don't see any such jumper it usually works to pull the power cord out and remove the quarter-size battery in the middle of the board and let stand for awhile, say while having lunch. I usually time it so there's a long time span while I do something else.
      My Computers


  4. Posts : 4,453
    Win 11 Pro 22000.708
       #14

    Cedsays said:
    Sorry. The complete model is

    MSI H81M-E34 LGA 1150 Intel H81 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard

    I don't have the manual but can download it and find the jumper.
    Thanks for the information. The jumper is labelled JBAT1. It's next to SATA ports 3 and 4 (on the right side of the board, near the back, as seen from the rear of the PC).

    The procedure I suggest is:

    Power down the PC.

    Turn off (or unplug) the PSU from the mains.

    Hold down the PC power switch for a few seconds, to discharge any remaining charge in the PSU.

    Install the jumper in the clear position. Leave it for about 10 seconds.

    Disconnect the jumper.

    Power up.

    (Pray.)
      My Computers


  5. Posts : 1,586
    win10 home
       #15

    Sounds like a faulty rail in your power supply unit.Either substitute a known working PSU or have yours tested.The test only takes 1 or 2 minutes.
      My Computer


  6. Posts : 30
    Windows 10
    Thread Starter
       #16

    bobkn said:
    Thanks for the information. The jumper is labelled JBAT1. It's next to SATA ports 3 and 4 (on the right side of the board, near the back, as seen from the rear of the PC).

    The procedure I suggest is:

    Power down the PC.

    Turn off (or unplug) the PSU from the mains.

    Hold down the PC power switch for a few seconds, to discharge any remaining charge in the PSU.

    Install the jumper in the clear position. Leave it for about 10 seconds.

    Disconnect the jumper.

    Power up.

    (Pray.)
    Will try this when I get home.
      My Computer


  7. Posts : 30
    Windows 10
    Thread Starter
       #17

    joeandmarg0 said:
    Sounds like a faulty rail in your power supply unit.Either substitute a known working PSU or have yours tested.The test only takes 1 or 2 minutes.
    That's what the consensus seems to be. I'll look into getting a new psu. If I read correctly, getting it tested would cost the same as getting a new unit? Either way, I'd rather get a new unit then have this one crap out again.
      My Computer


  8. Posts : 9,780
    Mac OS Catalina
       #18

    Cedsays said:
    That's what the consensus seems to be. I'll look into getting a new psu. If I read correctly, getting it tested would cost the same as getting a new unit? Either way, I'd rather get a new unit then have this one crap out again.
    Self tester with this one from Amazon for $50, $5.51 for 3 year protection, have it in one day for $8.99, which is not bad. Amazon.com: EVGA 600 B1, 80+ BRONZE 600W, 3 Year Warranty, Includes FREE Power On Self Tester, Power Supply 100-B1-0600-KR: Computers Accessories
      My Computer


  9. Posts : 30
    Windows 10
    Thread Starter
       #19

    bro67 said:
    Self tester with this one from Amazon for $50, $5.51 for 3 year protection, have it in one day for $8.99, which is not bad. Amazon.com: EVGA 600 B1, 80+ BRONZE 600W, 3 Year Warranty, Includes FREE Power On Self Tester, Power Supply 100-B1-0600-KR: Computers Accessories
    Awesome! Thanks for finding this for me. Happen to find anything close to this but modular? If not, I'll definitely pick this up tonight.
      My Computer


  10. Posts : 9,780
    Mac OS Catalina
       #20

    I would look around. Newegg had it on their site when I pulled up your motherboard. The units with the cables that you plug into the supply may cost more. At least if the shipping is that cheap, you may want to get a good power supply that also protects your motherboard, since it is a better quality one.
      My Computer


 

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