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  1. Join Date : May 2015
    Posts : 1,333
    Win 10 14393.51
       3 Days Ago #11

    Cedsays said: View Post
    Yeah, sorry. Working on details. It's just a little difficult to get proper formatting on mobile.

    Cpu - i5-6500
    Mobo - MSI-H81M
    Psu - corsair hx750
    Gpu - sapphire r9 290 tri-x
    Ram - 2x 8GB gskill nt ddr4

    Pressing the power button may wake a pc in sleep mode. I usually always did with either my keyboard or mouse. If the pc had already shut down before I got home would make more sense than the pc powering down from sleep mode I guess.
    There are more than a few 'H81M' boards out there from MSI.

    I assume that they all have jumpers to clear the CMOS settings. On the H81M-E35, it's labelled JBAT1.
      My System SpecsSystem Spec


  2. Join Date : Nov 2016
    Posts : 12
    Windows 10
       3 Days Ago #12

    bobkn said: View Post
    There are more than a few 'H81M' boards out there from MSI.

    I assume that they all have jumpers to clear the CMOS settings. On the H81M-E35, it's labelled JBAT1.
    Sorry. The complete model is

    MSI H81M-E34 LGA 1150 Intel H81 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard

    I don't have the manual but can download it and find the jumper.
      My System SpecsSystem Spec


  3. Join Date : Aug 2014
    Forever West
    Posts : 2,360
    Win10 Home and Pro, Win7 Home, Linux Mint
       3 Days Ago #13

    If you don't see any such jumper it usually works to pull the power cord out and remove the quarter-size battery in the middle of the board and let stand for awhile, say while having lunch. I usually time it so there's a long time span while I do something else.
      My System SpecsSystem Spec


  4. Join Date : May 2015
    Posts : 1,333
    Win 10 14393.51
       3 Days Ago #14

    Cedsays said: View Post
    Sorry. The complete model is

    MSI H81M-E34 LGA 1150 Intel H81 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard

    I don't have the manual but can download it and find the jumper.
    Thanks for the information. The jumper is labelled JBAT1. It's next to SATA ports 3 and 4 (on the right side of the board, near the back, as seen from the rear of the PC).

    The procedure I suggest is:

    Power down the PC.

    Turn off (or unplug) the PSU from the mains.

    Hold down the PC power switch for a few seconds, to discharge any remaining charge in the PSU.

    Install the jumper in the clear position. Leave it for about 10 seconds.

    Disconnect the jumper.

    Power up.

    (Pray.)
      My System SpecsSystem Spec


  5. Join Date : Jul 2015
    Posts : 62
    win10 home
       3 Days Ago #15

    Sounds like a faulty rail in your power supply unit.Either substitute a known working PSU or have yours tested.The test only takes 1 or 2 minutes.
      My System SpecsSystem Spec


  6. Join Date : Nov 2016
    Posts : 12
    Windows 10
       3 Days Ago #16

    bobkn said: View Post
    Thanks for the information. The jumper is labelled JBAT1. It's next to SATA ports 3 and 4 (on the right side of the board, near the back, as seen from the rear of the PC).

    The procedure I suggest is:

    Power down the PC.

    Turn off (or unplug) the PSU from the mains.

    Hold down the PC power switch for a few seconds, to discharge any remaining charge in the PSU.

    Install the jumper in the clear position. Leave it for about 10 seconds.

    Disconnect the jumper.

    Power up.

    (Pray.)
    Will try this when I get home.
      My System SpecsSystem Spec


  7. Join Date : Nov 2016
    Posts : 12
    Windows 10
       3 Days Ago #17

    joeandmarg0 said: View Post
    Sounds like a faulty rail in your power supply unit.Either substitute a known working PSU or have yours tested.The test only takes 1 or 2 minutes.
    That's what the consensus seems to be. I'll look into getting a new psu. If I read correctly, getting it tested would cost the same as getting a new unit? Either way, I'd rather get a new unit then have this one crap out again.
      My System SpecsSystem Spec


  8. Join Date : May 2015
    Central IL
    Posts : 2,948
    EL Capitan
       3 Days Ago #18

    Cedsays said: View Post
    That's what the consensus seems to be. I'll look into getting a new psu. If I read correctly, getting it tested would cost the same as getting a new unit? Either way, I'd rather get a new unit then have this one crap out again.
    Self tester with this one from Amazon for $50, $5.51 for 3 year protection, have it in one day for $8.99, which is not bad. Amazon.com: EVGA 600 B1, 80+ BRONZE 600W, 3 Year Warranty, Includes FREE Power On Self Tester, Power Supply 100-B1-0600-KR: Computers Accessories
      My System SpecsSystem Spec


  9. Join Date : Nov 2016
    Posts : 12
    Windows 10
       3 Days Ago #19

    bro67 said: View Post
    Self tester with this one from Amazon for $50, $5.51 for 3 year protection, have it in one day for $8.99, which is not bad. Amazon.com: EVGA 600 B1, 80+ BRONZE 600W, 3 Year Warranty, Includes FREE Power On Self Tester, Power Supply 100-B1-0600-KR: Computers Accessories
    Awesome! Thanks for finding this for me. Happen to find anything close to this but modular? If not, I'll definitely pick this up tonight.
      My System SpecsSystem Spec


  10. Join Date : May 2015
    Central IL
    Posts : 2,948
    EL Capitan
       3 Days Ago #20

    I would look around. Newegg had it on their site when I pulled up your motherboard. The units with the cables that you plug into the supply may cost more. At least if the shipping is that cheap, you may want to get a good power supply that also protects your motherboard, since it is a better quality one.
      My System SpecsSystem Spec


 
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