Sorry for the bad formated posting, still learning.
Sorry for the bad formated posting, still learning.
new to the thread and am having same problems especiaLLY when watching videos online but that is not the only occasion. i have reinstalled done a complete format and installed to clean partition. the windows compatibility chech reported all my external devices as being compatible all programmes are fresh instals but the problem still keeps cropping up thinking of going back to windows seven pro as that worked like a charm. if anybody knows anyfixes please help
I have also signed up to this forum research and post this issue.
I built this new PC on January 4, 2016. Everything was smooth for about a month. At some point I started getting the very random freezes. Sometimes once per day, sometimes multiple times per day, sometimes I go a day or two without. In general it actually feels like it's getting worse. It seems to mostly happen when I'm away from the computer and has rarely, (only once or twice) happened while I'm actually using the computer. For this reason it really feels like it must be a power management/idle issue. As a side note I've also gotten some graphics card/driver crash but that is another issue, I believe.
I have all power management settings at never/never (never sleep pc, never sleep monitor).
The first thing I found was a video showing to change PCI Espress > Link State Power Management to "off". I really thought this fixed it because I went a few days with no freeze after that. But nope. I saw a post to go in Nvidia control panel and change 3-D setting > power management mode from Adaptive to Prefer Maximum Performance, and I've done that.
I didn't update my Bios at start, and turns out I had reallly old Bios; so yesterday I updated to the latest mobo bios which is just a month or two old. I really had hope that maybe it contained the Skylake fix. Then a bit earlier today, I had a freeze.
I think the most perplexing thing to me is that everything was fine and then trouble started. Nothing changed aside from maybe windows updates. The other perplexing thing is that I really don't do anything intense on my PC, so as the Skylake issue mentions no "complex workloads" (unless I am misinterpreting what that would mean). I play one game only and do normal work/firefox stuff. I like to leave my game running in the background and I like to stay logged into it all the time. I did this for years on my older Win7 PC which is still fully intact and sitting right next to this new one.
My latest thing I'm trying is disabling fast startup in windows and bios because someone posted that ASUS responded with that suggestion. I've also changed my OS Optimization in Samsung Magician to Maximum Reliability. I kinda don't have faith in anything anymore and this is getting really depressing.
Belarc Advisor, run it, then attach the final html report, as I'd like to do some research and that would be a tremendous help. The final html report lists sensitive info, like your laptop's serial number, or personal info, such as usernames, IP, etc,so please remove that info from the report (you should be able to open it in notepad [I recommend Notepad++ or opening it from within PowerShell ISE], use search, and remove the applicable info).
- Please see my reply to @Grzegorz below, specifically the text in dark red, as it describes a better way to accomplish the removal of sensitive information
I believe it should also list the hardware you have installed, as I'm going to need to know the exact component model #'s of certain things, such as the WiFi card, to determine the proper driver for it. I should be able to get back to you sometime tomorrow with a decent reply.
I realize many users are probably perusing Google and other forums when they have an issue, probably posting in more than one forum/thread. Since I know taking the time to write a detailed explanation of what's going on literally takes time, and once done once, a user generally doesn't want to have to do it over and over again on each thread/forum. What I do when I have an issue is type it up in Notepad++ (word, or any document program works as well, I almost always have notepad++ open because it's extremely useful, so it's what I tend to use the most), save it, then paste it into the applicable thread. It makes it easier on the end user, as you only have to type the explanation once, and you're done with it.
Also, do you have any program installed that will edit PDFs? It seems some XML code was deleted, which makes your two printouts extremely difficult to read in comparison with the normal report layout. If you don't have a PDF editor (as you can print the HTML output to PDF with Microsoft's PDF printer), the easiest and most convenient way would be for you to maximize the browser with the HTML report open in it and take a screenshot, scroll down a bit, take another, and so on.
- Screenshots are taken one of two ways: WinKey+PRT SCRN OR FN+WinKey+PRT SCRN
- They're saved to your Pictures folder
The screenshots can then be opened in Paint, and you can create a whiteout rectangle (edit the edge and fill so both are white) over the sensitive info. You can then copy and paste the rectangle, resizing as needed. Once you've whited out all the sensitive info, print the screenshot to PDF (landscape mode), which will prevent those edits from being undone.
For example, here's my Belarc PDF with whiteouts over sensitive info.
- I've highlighted the areas that will need to be whited-out.
Last edited by JW0914; 03 Mar 2016 at 23:31.
I can confirm that this issue is related to HW compatibility.
Changed my mainboard and cpu due to an upgrade, and now it is working perfectly (I am using same HD)
Grzegorz. The vast majority of users who do a clean install and follow the proper clean install procedure stop having driver (i.e. hardware compatibility) related issues.
Madammes et Monsieurs,
I wouldn't like to jinx it, but having installed in UEFI Native mode, I managed to install all the appz needed and work afterwards for two consecutive days - with no freezes nor lags, which hadn't had happenned ever before on this laptop (under Win10).
So, seems the Graal has been found
Also, HP confirmed that they spoke to several customers complaining about Win10 behaviour on HP laptops, when installed i n Legacy mode, where UEFI installation was solving all the issues.
Anyone who has UEFI firmware should be utilizing it with Secure Boot enabled (i.e. not set to legacy). Also, HDDs should be reformatted from MBR o GPT, as MBR is obsolete. UEFI installs require a minimum of 3 partitions (4 if you also create a recovery or OSI partition), and 4 partitions is the max an MBR formatted HD can have. With GPT, there's no limit to how many partitions the HDD can have.
Converting to GPT requires backing up all data one wishes to save on all partitions located on the HDD. Once backed up, convert it to GPT using DiskPart, however there's a caveat if converting a boot drive to GPT.
- After backing up all data to be saved, boot from the Windows Setup ISO.
- Once it loads WinPE, press Shift+F10 to open a command prompt
- list disk
- sel disk X
- where X equals the disk # of boot disk
- convert gpt
- Once at the disk layout GUI screen, select the boot disk you just converted to GPT and select Install
- Do not manually create any partitions, as doing so will screw up the disk partition layout of: EFI System Install
- If one wishes to manually partition the drive prior to installing Windows, it must be done via DiskPart with the user creating the appropriate partitions, with the appropriate GPT GUIDs, and formatting them with the proper filesystems (EFI partition must be FAT32, for instance)
- Even if one has converted a drive to GPT prior to installing, if it is not done in DiskPart while booted from the Windows install ISO, Windows will reformat it to MBR.
- I don't know, or even understand, why the installer does this, but it does. It's best to check DiskPart prior to installing, as the list disk command will show whether the disk is GPT per the GPT column (you can also select a disk, partition, or volume and then issue the detail command, i.e. sel dis 1, then detail disk)
Once one has installed Windows onto a MB who's UEFI configuration is set to UEFI and not legacy, Windows will not boot if the configuration is changed to legacy or vice versa. This is important to remember in case of a MB swap, whether under warranty or out of pocket.
- This also applies to RAID and AHCI, so if one is utilizing an SSD and not utilizing a RAID configuration, the UEFI configuration/BIOS should be set to AHCI.
- Many SSDs require AHCI for proper performance to be maintained on the SSD, and anyone owning a Samsung SSD should know this, as it's extremely apparent in Samsung Magician.
Last edited by JW0914; 04 Mar 2016 at 09:36.
Just as an appendum - I have successully installed Win10 in legacy mode on a few laptops so far, although only on Dells, not HPs.
Legacy is just comfortable - no need to reformat drives and moving its data back and forth, no need to play with BIOS settings whenever I want to boot from a pendrive, no problem with swapping images of several systems etc. Anyhow, seems that what was not problematic at all on Win8, is sometimes a must in Win10 (e.g. on HP platform).
Not to forget - my freezing problem decreased after updating BIOS, and additionaly freezes were being magnified by Acronis 2015. So, there are several drivers for Windows10's freezing, with some chances of collective appearance...
BTW - is there any way to reformat a drive from MBR to GPT without deleting all the partitions first? It is kinda molesting whenever there is e.g. a dedicated 100GB partition for a system, and 1.5TB of data on the other partition... :|
PS JW0914 - thanks a lot for all the support during the battle
You shouldn't have to change any settings if booting from a USB drive... simply use a utility like Rufus (it's free as well as portable), which will auto create an EFI bootable USB drive from an ISO image.
- All that a USB drive needs to be bootable on EFI installs is the EFI boot folder which contains the relevant EFI boot files (this applies both to Windows and *nix USB bootable drives).
I'm note sure what you mean by "swapping images of several systems".
EFI has been around for over two decades, however Microsoft procrastinated until the last possible minute, as did OEMs. EFI is the gold standard, as BIOS has been obsolete for almost a decade. Running a Windows install with UEFI set to legacy causes slower performance and slower boots, as BIOS is not 64bit capable. It's worth googling to understand why UEFI should be utilized in it's native, non-legacy form.
As to MBR vs GPT, no... the partition layout structure is entirely different. It's worth the time to backup what needs to be backed up, convert to GPT, then copy everything back using something like RoboCopy. For example:
- robocopy Z:\ D:\ /e /zb /copyall /move /mt:30 /eta /log+:C:\Temp\RoboCopy.log /tee /save:Full-Disk-Copy
- For the definitions of each flag: robocopy /?
- The log file append flag /log+: is extremely important, as it will log any errors, as well as completion summary. If the build gets cancelled mid way through, you can refer to the log to see the last copy attempt. I would recommend anyone not already having done so to install NotePad++, as it makes any type of log, registry file, config file viewing/editing far, far better than using regular notepad.
- NotePad++ also has many plugins available that most will find extraordinarily useful. There's one plugin, compare, which allows you to compare two files side by side and shows the differences between the two. If viewing a registry file, you can expand or collapse registry key trees as well.
- The other important flag is /mt:30 which stands for Multi-Threaded copy, i.e. copying multiple files at once (30 will copy 30 at once). This will need to be adjusted based on processor speed, RAM, and whether you're going to be using the PC during the copy. If you are going to be using the PC, don't include the /mt: flag
- If one has at least 20GB of RAM, it may be worth the time to set up a RAM drive to massively speed up transfers, however this requires more steps.
- One could get away with 16GB, however if they're using the PC during the transfer, they must ensure they keep an eye on available RAM and do not perform other RAM intensive operations (multiple browser tabs/windows, editing large files or photos, etc.)
- First step is installing the free software that creates the RAM disk. A RAM disk is a disk of selectable size that allows one to copy a file directly to RAM. The size of the file will decrease the available RAM by that amount, and if power is lost, so is all data saved to the RAM disk. RAM disks are meant for short term storage and are extremely useful when used properly.
- Second would require two robocopy operations, one that copies files from the source to the RAM disk, and a second robocopy instance that monitors the RAM drive with the flag /MON:1 (monitors for 1 file change, and upon the change copies the file according to the other flags set within the command to the final destination.
- It's best to create a task in task scheduler for the second command